ECO WARRIOR

Eco Warrior Receives Heart & Soul Award

2010-06-21T23:37:00.000-07:00

Laguna Beach “Eco-Warrior” Receives Heart & Soul Award
http://www.ocregister.com/news/-75609-ocprint--.html

LAGUNA HILLS, Calif. – May 12, 2010 – James Pribram of Laguna Beach was announced today as the May recipient of the Orange County Heart & Soul Award. Pribram, a professional surfer and owner of Aloha School of Surfing, is being honored for his dedication to improving water quality and protecting endangered reefs and wildlife along Orange County’s coastlines – an endeavor Pribram embarked upon in Laguna Beach more than 10 years ago.

Created by O’Connor Mortuary, the Heart & Soul Award program is designed to recognize an Orange County citizen each month for their passion for life and for their dedication to making a difference, whether they possess a lifetime of endeavors or for a one-time inspirational achievement.

“James is the perfect selection for our Heart & Soul Award because he’s incredibly passionate about what he does. He works hard and remains dedicated to doing what he loves – protecting our coastlines for generations to come,” said Neil O’Connor, President and CEO of O’Connor Mortuary. “He’s an inspiration for us all to follow our hearts and to use our talents to serve a greater good.”

Pribram’s journey of environmentalism began locally in 1997. While teaching a surfing class, he entered the water with a small cut on his wrist that landed him in the emergency room only hours later with a near-fatal staph infection. Shaken by the realty of the situation, Pribram knew that something needed to be done to raise awareness and improve polluted ocean conditions in Orange County. After speaking before City Council, he was elected to the Laguna Beach Water Quality Committee in 2000 and has worked relentlessly since to raise awareness of coastal environmental issues.

“The Water Quality Committee gave way to more programs dedicated to cleaning up the beaches, and created awareness among the community that had never existed before,” Pribram said. “Now there are beach clean-ups every month in Laguna. People are doing great things and it was all brought on by the ocean committees.”

Pribram remained committed to keeping his hometown clean by serving on the Laguna Beach Environmental Committee from 2005-2007, and in 2006, he took his passion far beyond the Southern California coast. With roots in Laguna Beach, Pribram created The Eco-Warrior project, an environmental preservation initiative focused on improving ocean-water quality, preventing destruction of surf locations and protecting endangered reefs and wildlife on an international level. Eco-Warrior’s efforts have taken Pribram to Chile, New Zealand, Canary Islands, Peru, Japan, Spain, Portugal, Hawaii, the Great Lakes and Chicago. Most recently, Pribram traveled to Louisiana and Mississippi to report on the massive oil spill taking place in the Gulf of Mexico.

In addition to making a difference in the environment, Pribram co-foundered They Will Surf Again, an organization that raises funds for individuals who have suffered from ocean-related spinal injuries, which has since merged into an outreach program with Life Rolls On. He will also be supporting Project Save Our Surf during International Surfing Day, June 19-20, for a 24-hour surf-a-thon.

As winner of the Heart & Soul Award, O’Connor Mortuary will present Pribram with an official plaque and a donation will be made in his name to a local nonprofit organization of his choice.

ABOUT O’CONNOR MORTUARY
O’Connor Mortuary is the oldest family owned and operated mortuary in California. With offices in Laguna Hills, San Juan Capistrano and Irvine, Calif., it is the leading “stand alone” mortuary in Orange County. Founded in 1898 by Patrick J. O’Connor, and succeeded by his son Joseph and grandson Joseph Jr., the company today is managed by the fourth generation of O’Connors, including Neil P. O’Connor, CEO; Joseph Fitzgerald, CFO; Charles Ricciardi, COO; and Jeff Turner, CAO. O’Connor Mortuary is recognized throughout Southern California for its longstanding tradition of caring, personalized service, honesty and integrity. The multi-generational company is active in numerous local charitable organizations and was honored by the California Historical Society for more than 100 years of continuous care and service to Southern California families. In addition, the company was honored in 2005 by the Family Owned Business Council for longevity and has received the Leatherby Award for Ethics in America.

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Project Save our Surf - Honors James Pribram with PSOS Award

2010-06-21T23:18:00.000-07:00

Huge roster of celebs bringing awareness and raising funds to support the causes that are helping to save our precious oceans.

Yeah, Team Eco Warrior! Project Save Our Surf 24-hour surf event Champs!

Readers Digest - "River Keeper", June/July 2010

2010-06-21T22:54:00.000-07:00

24-hr Surf-a-thon - Huntington Beach, June 19-20, 2010

2010-06-21T22:49:00.000-07:00

Surfing has always meant something more to me. Surfing, the beach, the ocean has always been the one constant path in my life, my best friend, teacher and so much more. It is something that I strive to give back to every day. I do believe that surfing has the power to change people. I also believe that our beaches and waves can serve as playgrounds for every next generation of children. I know because the beach has always been my playground.

When I was a kid growing up in Laguna Beach I had two best friends, one of whom I am still best friends with today, while the other went down the wrong path in life, a path of drugs and all though I had great parents who taught me right from wrong, sometimes you need more and for me; I always had surfing to come back too.

My life has always been about surfing and now it’s all about giving back to the sport of surfing, our beaches and our oceans. This weekend we will all have the opportunity to give back to all three in a big way. Project Save Our Surf will be having a 24-hour surf-a-thon starting this Saturday at noon at the Huntington Beach Pier and going for a full 24 hours until noon Sunday. A full 24 hours of action-packed surfing, with celebrities, musicians, professional athletes but most importantly those of us who care the most about our ocean’s and beaches.

Along with the surfing, great bands like Common Sense will be playing with fun filled activities for the kids to enjoy, food booths and a whole row of ECO-friendly booths for the whole family to enjoy. I would like to take a quick moment and thank Project Save Our Surf for putting on such a great event and bring awareness to such an important cause with proceeds going to the Surfrider foundation and Heal the Bay.

After all, what good is the beach if we can’t enjoy the ocean?

Peace.

Exploration Team Responds to Oil Spill in Gulf of Mexico

2010-05-06T17:23:00.000-07:00

~Below the Surface and The Eco-Warrior Team mobilize to assess pre-contamination conditions to establish a baseline for restoration efforts in the Gulf of Mexico~
New Orleans, LA – On May 5th 2010, the exploration team from Below the Surface (BTS) & Eco-Warrior/pro-surfer James Pribram are expected to arrive and hire local fishermen and pilots to charter their critical mission to assess pre-contamination conditions in sensitive habitats along the Gulf Coast. This oil spill has the potential to be the worst in America’s history and has spilled nearly 3-million gallons into the Gulf with no signs of slowing. If the wellhead blows we could see a spill of over 2 million gallons per day; it is currently spewing over 200,000 gallons per day.
It is imperative that a baseline assessment of pre-contamination conditions be established in the Gulf of Mexico to aid restoration efforts. The team will coordinate water and soil sampling while focusing on video footage, and thorough photo documentation. All of these parameters are imperative for successful clean-up and rehabilitation efforts.
The BTS Team will build a comprehensive database using the latest technology with Google Earth, GPS, Time-stamps & proprietary photography techniques. In addition, they will offer real-time updates through their social networks, coordinate daily media interviews, and offer streamlined fundraising for local NGOs.
“The cost to the fishing industry in Louisiana could be $2.5 billion, while the impact on tourism along Florida's panhandle coast could be $3 billion,” Neil McMahon, analyst at investment firm Bernstein, said on Friday.
This spill comes at the peak of nesting & migration in the South for millions of birds and at the start of the shrimping & fishing season. Fisherman Harold Strong told WLOX, "We'll be out of business, basically, pretty much devastated. I see no recovery. If you lose two to three years, I can see absolutely no way to come back from it." The local economic impact could surpass that of Hurricane Katrina. Oil has begun to wash ashore in remote areas of Louisiana so it is important that the team moves quickly through the Gulf Coast.
It was only three months ago that the BTS team completed their successful expedition on the Atchafalaya River in Louisiana to document nature’s resilience and Gulf Coast restoration. A writer and a photographer from Reader’s Digest covered the story and it is due in the June issue.
REQUEST FOR SUPPORT: “Any donation up to the $34,000 budget total to get our crew on the ground for several weeks is greatly appreciated by us, the fishermen whose families rely on this coastline for survival, and the animals that thrive in this area,” says Gustavson—donations can be made directly @ www.belowthesurface.org

"Tune In" - Fuel TV Daily Habit, Tuesday March 30, 2010

2010-04-01T11:38:00.000-07:00

Airing Tuesday, March 30 at 9:00 pm Eastern Time (6:00 pm Pacific Time) and telecast three additional times James Pribram and musical guest Angels & Airwaves will appear on “The Daily Habit.”

Today, the Eco Warrior James Pribram is back on The Habit to tell us about his 180 mile Stand Up Paddle big river adventure. Also, a few very special performances on the Stride Sound Stage from today’s musical guest Angels & Airwaves.

James Pribram’s sponsors include: Globe, XS Energy Drink and Boost Mobile.

James Pribram

"The Daily Habit" is FUEL TV’s first original daily series, telecast weeknights at 9:00pm ET (6:00pm PT) while re-airing later in the evening at 12:00am ET (9:00pm PT), and the following weekday at 2:30pm ET (11:30am PT) and 5:30pm ET (2:30 pm PT). “The Daily Habit” encompasses the world of the action sports enthusiast, mixing the best in pop culture with today’s top action sports personalities, cutting-edge music, product reviews, and comedy.

About FUEL TV
FUEL TV is the action sports lifestyle network for skateboarding, snowboarding, surfing, BMX, freestyle-motocross, and wakeboarding. FUEL TV was launched July 1, 2003 and is seen in 30-million U.S. homes. To subscribe to FUEL TV, call 877-4-FUEL-TV. For program times and other information, visit www.fuel.tv .

A Trip Down River in Tennessee

2010-02-19T22:10:00.000-08:00

It’s been quite a while since the last time I slept for 12 hours straight, but that’s what I did after taking a canoe 180 miles down the Atchafalaya River, along with legendary river guide John Ruskey of Quapaw Canoe, author and writer Steve Chapple, photographer Erika Larsen of Readers Digest (who is doing a feature story about the river expedition). Also along for the trip were the co-founders of the nonprofit organization Below the Surface, Kristian Gustavson, Jared Criscuolo and Guy McClellan.

My sleep came easy that night.

In all of my travels, this trip stands out the most to me. Mostly because I was more nervous about this trip than any other, including my trip to Japan to protest the killings of dolphins and small whales two and half years ago.

I’ve never been much of a camper and the last time I checked, I had never seen the likes of an alligator, or a water snake for that matter, while out surfing. However, I knew this was a chance of a lifetime and in my mind was a good old-fashioned American adventure like Huck Finn going down the Mississippi River, and that was something I could not resist.

However, the minute I landed in Memphis, Tenn., I knew I was in for one wild ride. Most everyone I spoke to said it would be too cold, along with weather reports.

I nearly tried to get back on the plane in Memphis, it was that cold. In fact, it snowed on us while we camped on the side of the river one early morning, followed by frost the next morning. You could say we had all forms of weather, including lots of rain, thunder, lightning, sleet, snow, frost and even two days of sun, which felt like heaven on Earth.

Our coldest day on the river was 28 degrees and a water temperature of 37, which, ironically, was the same day that I fell six feet into the river — after the tree under me broke. Soon we had to stop on the side of the river to build a fire because within two hours I was becoming hypothermic. In conditions like that, things can turn tragic very quickly.

Each day we would break camp and be on the water by 8 a.m. for eight hours, getting off the water by 4 p.m. so we had enough daylight to set up camp. It was an incredible feeling being on that river each day — one of God’s greatest creations — and among bald eagles and beavers and the power of the river itself. All the while being unreachable by cell phone or Internet.

It’s amazing how clear one’s mind becomes during a journey like this. How thankful I am for such an amazing opportunity and the inspiration to continue giving back to something that has given me so much — the environment.

Peace.

Beaches are no Place for Litter

2010-02-04T10:53:00.000-08:00

Growing up in Laguna Beach was a dream in itself. Being lucky enough to be raised in a home overlooking Pearl Street beach still means the world to me. For a long time I had a really hard time leaving that beach and my home, which was really one and the same.

The older surfers always kept us in line. There was a pecking order and a level of respect that came along with it. Sometimes I wonder if the younger surfers understand this. If one of the older surfers saw one of us leave our trash behind, we would pay dearly with a good feasting of sand, pink bellies, snuggies or just a good old junior birdman off of the sea wall.

More so, we cared for our beach like no other. We probably kept our beach cleaner than our own bedrooms. In fact, I know I did. I don’t know if it’s a lack of respect for our beaches or for the environment or if the younger surfers just haven’t been taught right.

Maybe it’s a combination of both.

Either way, I cannot figure out the logic behind wanting to go to the beach — somewhere that you love and cherish — and then leaving your trash behind. Here’s one better: When you see trash on our beaches, instead of walking past it, pick it up. Or when you see someone littering, let them know that it’s not cool; enlighten them.

Perhaps as one of the older surfers now, I need to do a better job of enlightening the younger surfers and beachgoers about the importance of respecting our beaches and caring for them. It’s great that we have Zero Trash Laguna to pick up after those who fail to do so, but it certainly doesn’t mean it’s cool to leave your trash behind.

Peace.

Mexican Resort Offers a Little Slice of Heaven

2010-01-28T22:09:00.000-08:00

Greetings Laguna Beach from Punta Mita, Mexico, where I have been visiting for the past week. I’ve been staying at the St. Regis here, helping the resort develop a new program titled “Surf with a Pro,” set to launch this spring break. It will be offered to beginning through advanced surfers alike.

Outside my window is a sparkling, crystal clear ocean with a slight offshore and a 2- to 3-foot peeling right.

Not a soul or surfer in sight.

However, I plan on changing that once I finish writing my column.

I’ve been amazed at how good the waves are such a short distance away from the resort, and looking outside right now it would be hard to distinguish whether I was in Hawaii, Tahiti or Punta Mita.

It is that beautiful here, and the grounds are simply amazing. I’m not sure what heaven is like, but staying here at the St. Regis has to come close to it.

The other day I was picked up on the beach and taken surfing by boat, which is the best transportation to these surfing breaks, considering the rocky shoreline and factoring in the odd sea urchin to look out for. But what good surfing wave doesn’t come with that?

It’s really unbelievable how many different types of breaks there are here. They even have their own version of Waikiki, and I surfed a wave that reminded me of a similar wave on the island of Huhine, Tahiti — well, without the top-to-bottom barrel.

It’s been an unbelievable trip.

I was sitting at the pool the other day after surfing, completely mesmerized by the sight and sound of the fountain flowing into the pool. Not a soul around, not even a cloud in the sky.

I paused for a moment, looked up toward the empty blue sky, tipped my ice-cold Bohemia and said, “Thank you God, thank you very much.”

Peace.

City Council gets it right on Mozambique

2010-01-21T22:10:00.000-08:00

My mom is always telling me how much people enjoy it when I go after the Laguna Beach City Council, and I always reply that it’s not a matter of “going after them.” It’s just a difference in opinion — that’s it, nothing more.

I don’t write about or, as some may say, “bash” the council for anyone’s entertainment.

I write what I believe in, end of story.

My belief is that the council has a very difficult job to do with little or no pay. They have a willingness to put themselves out there, where many are afraid to go.

The council constantly comes under fire on blogs in which cowards hide behind fake names and are able to write what they like without being held accountable, unlike real journalists and columnists.

In my opinion, these haters should have to use their real names and be held accountable just like the rest of us who are merely doing our best. Perhaps then we would have an even playing field with better and more qualified comments instead of some of the trash that is being spewed by the armchair quarterback.

It has never made sense to me that sometimes when two people disagree on something they come away as enemies with a lack of mutual respect for one another.

Frankly, if someone doesn’t have the nerve to use their real name there’s no reason to read it because there’s no credibility to it.

Attending Tuesday’s council meeting, I realized just how much the council put themselves out there. I don’t always agree with them, but I respect them for the tireless job they are doing.

Not to mention that they got it right when the council voted 4 to 1 to extend Mozambique’s food service.

I support your decision, because the last thing Laguna needs is another restaurant going out of business.

Peace.

The sounds of gunfire

2010-01-14T22:09:00.000-08:00

hat a difference a day makes. On Tuesday, sitting atop the Roof Top and enjoying lunch with a few friends, we couldn’t help but enjoy the view and the marvelous sunny day before us. But just down the road, to the north of us, was an entirely different scene. For the second time in five days, a high-speed chase had ended in a crash, only blocks apart of each other.

Sadly, this one was even worse as Laguna Beach police ended up shooting the suspect, before he had an opportunity to potentially harm more people.

Given his allegedly erratic, high-speed and dangerous way of driving, I think we are lucky that more people were not injured, or worse, killed.

Shootings for the most part are rare in Laguna but, boy, do they always seem to have some weird twist to them.

There was the Montage resort shooting a few years ago, and the erratic behavior of a couple that had checked in the night before, paying cash. That ended sadly with the woman pointing a gun at police.

Then there was the New Year’s Day shooting two years ago in front of the El Ranchito, when the driver shot at police while driving south on the highway.

All of these shootings happened in broad daylight and out in public. What’s even scarier is hearing kids talk about Tuesday’s shooting, and that when they heard the gunfire that they all began running toward it. To see what’s happening? I’m not sure what the allure is in running toward gunfire.

Maybe we’re just not well conditioned in how the public needs to react in these situations, because shootings are rare happenings in Laguna Beach? Now I’m no gun expert, but if I hear gunfire, I’m hitting the ground and not running toward it. Neither should you. Peace.

View from the Bay Area

2010-01-07T22:09:00.000-08:00

From outside my window here in San Francisco, a man stands high above the sidewalk changing the La Barca sign. It now reads “every Monday $5 dinner and $5 margaritas;” just above, it also reads “Mexican food since 1963.” I’m here staying across the street at the Chelsea Inn, working on a book that I have been working on since late 2003.

It’s a cold and dreary day outside, but it doesn’t seem too slow down the hustle and bustle of the outside traffic. Both in the street and the sidewalk, life carries on. The hand of time continues to march on. Woven in heavy jackets and scarves, everyone seems to have a rather sophisticated look. Maybe it’s just the cold weather or maybe it’s the style of the city? It’s funny because any time I wear a scarf, boy do people heckle me about it. But here it’s a staple of everyday dress in the wintertime. I always enjoy observing the differences to everyday life in Laguna Beach.

The other day I walked around for miles. I began my morning down by the marina, and the frigid wind blew off of the water and right through me. I was stunned by the cold, but all around me people carried on like the cold didn’t exist.

They were running, walking and playing Frisbee and this was at 8 a.m. Later I walked to the top of Fillmore Street, and the view overlooking the bay was unbelievable. As I played, tourists were taking pictures of the view.

While traveling — whether in a foreign country or otherwise — I love just watching and observing the subtle and vast differences from life in Laguna, and snapping pictures and writing about it in my journal. The traveling life is fun.

But my mind always remains in Laguna and what the day is like there.

Peace.

Bring back the love

2009-12-31T22:09:00.000-08:00

Is it really Dec. 31? Looking outside all I can see are sunny skies without a cloud in sight — maybe an omen for us in 2010? Let’s hope so. Summer had some of the warmest water temperatures in recent memory. The last summer I can remember with such high water temperatures was the epic El Niño summer of 1996, and let’s not forget the dreadful summer of 2005 with the drizzle and hideous red tide that followed the big rains of that winter.

None of us can forget the Bluebird slide of June 1, 2005. This year, although Laguna escaped any major natural disasters, our town did have its first homicide in seven years with the killing of Damon Nicholson.

Rest in peace, our fallen friend.

And Laguna certainly didn’t escape the controversies. Who can forget the onslaught of homeless people flocking to our town and taking up residence in what seemed to be every corner of our downtown beaches and parks?

Kudos to our city for building a homeless shelter for them.

Then came the flurry of finger-pointing of two sides fighting over the Marine Life Protection Act — which, if approved, will see six or seven miles of Laguna coastline off-limits to fishing, not to mention opening the door for future restrictions, including surfing, kayaking, snorkeling; perhaps one day even walking on the beaches or along the tide pools.

And I thought it was bad when the city banned Frisbees.

My hope for 2010 is that cooler heads will prevail and Laguna will continue uniting for great events like the first Saturday of every month participating in picking up trash for Zero Trash Laguna, or showing its support like it did Dec. 10 at Mozambique for the hikers who are being held in Iran.

2010 should be about the community of Laguna Beach, supporting local businesses; finding compromise and solutions to our town’s needs, and bringing back that old Laguna neighborly love.

Happy New Year.

Peace.

Back From The Injury Brink

2009-12-24T22:10:00.000-08:00

Good day, Laguna. It’s good to be back after I missed writing my column for the first time in a decade or more. Although it was said that I was “under the weather,” I appreciate all of your e-mails asking me where I was and not how I was.

The truth is I was injured surfing Dec. 14. My karma, I think. Normally for the last few years I have really tried my best to not surf after rain. It’s been my one-person protest of how polluted the oceans are after rain. However, on this day the waves were just too good. And I paid the price. Just like a scene out of “Caddy Shack.”

Having the time of my life surfing by my parent’s house, I came screaming down the face of a wave when out of nowhere this rock just stood up out of the water. If I’m not mistaken it was smiling at me. In not such a swift moment I tried to jump over it, only to jump right into it shin first, wham, at the moment of impact with my whole leg flexed. I knew I was headed to the emergency room.

Once on the beach I looked down at my shin where my 4-millimeter wetsuit looked to have been cleanly sliced through with a razor blade, all the way down to my shinbone, which wasn’t smiling at me. I rolled up my wetsuit over the wound to apply pressure and limped to the bottom of the stairs before taking a few short minutes to capture my composure. I lay on my back in my full wetsuit and thought of the scene in “Caddy Shack” where the old guy is having the game of his life before lifting his club in celebration and being struck by lightning.

I laughed out loud until it hurt too much, then limped up the stairs and the hill and drove myself to Mission Hospital Laguna Beach, and was wheeled in, in a wet and sandy wetsuit that had to be cut off, and then they stitched me up.

Ironically, the real pain happened two mornings later when I awoke at 4 a.m. in the most unbearable pain ever. My cut was now infected. Worse, I know there are going to be a lot of angry kids, after their mothers read this and tell them not to go surfing after the rain. Sorry, but it’s probably not worth it.

It was first thought that it was MRSA, but then the infection came back as “unknown.” The last 10 days have been rough, but I can’t tell you how thankful I am that it wasn’t worse and my infection has made a turn for the better. The best Christmas gift of all will be spending it with my family and friends, healthy and well.

Well, that and making it to the Sandpiper on Sunday night for the “Return of the El Caminos,” another special Laguna gathering of family and friends celebrating the life and times of Laguna’s musical genius Joey Petrovich, who sadly passed away on this date in 2003. Petrovich was a friend to many, and this will be an evening certainly to remember as many of Laguna greatest musicians will be paying tribute to a truly dear friend.

I hope to see you all there.

Merry Christmas, Laguna.

A Big Freeze and Bigger Waves

2009-12-10T22:10:00.000-08:00

Winter is almost here. It’s freezing. I can’t remember it ever being this cold. So cold in fact that there was a frost advisory in Laguna Beach — so much for global warming. My phone has been ringing at 6 a.m. with the latest surf reports. It’s looking like we should have plenty of swell the next couple of days with a strong possibility of more rain.

Speaking of waves, a big congratulations to San Clemente’s Greg Long for becoming the first Californian to win the Eddie Aikau Invitational.

Held at Waimea Bay, on the north shore of Oahu in solid 20- to 25-foot waves it was the first time for an invitee to best the former nine-time world champion Kelly Slater in what many are calling one of the best big wave contests off all time.

Next up is the world’s most prestigious event, the Pipeline Masters, which will be showcasing a world title showdown between 2007 world champion and ratings leader Mick Fanning against world tour No. 2 surfer Joel Parkinson, who incidentally won the World Cup of Surfing last week.

My money is on Fanning picking up his second world title, and I’m picking Slater to win the event, motivating him to come back next year to win a 10th world title.

Speaking of great events, I have to give a big thumbs up to the city of Laguna Beach for hosting a great Hospitality Night last week. Way to bring our community together for a great evening of fun and music. The kids loved the fake snow blower. Thanks again.

In more community news, a big thumbs out goes out to Zero Trash Laguna, which hosts a beach clean up the first Saturday of the month.

I couldn’t believe how many people I saw picking up trash at this month’s event. I saw people all the way out in the canyon picking up trash. Way to bring our community together and making it cool for all to participate.

Got to love this town.

Peace.

Council Needs to Broaden its Input

2009-12-09T22:10:00.000-08:00

To fish or not to fish?

Shelter the homeless or leave them out in the cold?

Beach curfew or freedom?

A sister city in France or just nonsense?

To neuter sea lions or, OK, sorry, I’m sure you get the point of where I’m going here.

The idea of neutering sea lions was the suggestion of one councilwoman — the same one who was quoted as saying that 80% of Laguna was behind a total fishing ban off Laguna Beach, only to admit later that she was incorrect in stating something of such magnitude.

From what I have heard on the streets, and more importantly on the beaches, “Why don’t they just let the Laguna Beach residents vote on these things?”

Great question.

I wish I had thought of that myself. Maybe the powers that be haven’t even thought about it. Either way, it seems like a good solution to many of these issues that have been recently hot topics within city limits.

I think that for the most part, people want to do the right thing. They don’t want to see our oceans and beaches being trashed. We would all love to see the fish return, but the lack of fish in our oceans is more than a seven-mile stretch of a problem — it’s a worldwide problem that begins and ends with big net fishing.

It is impossible for the lone person or people with the odd fishing pole to overfish these waters. If you really want to make Laguna Beach its own marine reserve, then you should be required to clean up Aliso Creek first.

Oh, you also might want to stop that dredging dump site five miles off of Laguna Beach. Yes, even though it would be out of the three-mile golden triangle of Laguna Beach’s marine reserve, the currents will take the sediment that is being dumped within that three-mile limit.

But you might have to actually go into the ocean or to the beach to understand.

If you ask me, city officials need to start paying more attention to its residents and less to their personal agendas. When council members start freelancing and wanting to change the colors of ribbons on national holidays because of their birthdays or overnight acquire a sister town on behalf of Laguna Beach, that is a gross misappropriation of power.

What happened to finding better solutions to these problems and — here’s a word for you — compromise?

What kind of example does this set for the generations to follow? That your voice doesn’t matter, even if you’re willing to share and do the right thing?

It’s time for the Laguna Beach City Council to start doing the right thing: listening.

Peace.

Surfer Dominates Event, Beats Out Favorites

2009-11-26T22:10:00.000-08:00

Everyone loves a good Cinderella story, and Joel Centeio winning the six-star Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa, Oahu, in front of family and friends, was one for the ages.

Surfing his way from the beginning in round one, winning all seven heats including the finals, Centieio dominated this event, even besting that of world title contender Joel Parkinson and that of world No. 5 C.J. Hobgood, who placed runner-up to Centeio in the finals.

Rounding out the finals of the Reef Hawaiian pro were Australian Jay Thompson and Tahiti’s Alain Rio.

By making the finals of this event, Thompson all but assured himself on next year’s premier stage of the world surfing tour. As did Californian Nathan Yeomans of nearby San Clemente.

After traveling the world qualifying tour for years trying to qualify for surfing’s biggest stage, Yeomans is over the moon, I’m sure. You’ve got to love a kid with that kind of heart who never gives up and finally succeeds in making his dream come true.

Good for you, Nathan.

Other Orange County surfers looking good to qualify for next year’s world tour include: Pat Gudauskas also of San Clemente, ranked No. 2 on the WQS (World Qualifying tour); Huntington beach’s Brett Simpson, No. 9; and Tanner Gudauskas in the No. 16 slot.

With one event down, the Vans Triple Crown will now move to the epic wave of Sunset Beach, where Hobgood will be defending his crown and poised to make a run at this year’s Triple Crown. Especially considering his runner-up finish in this year’s first event of the Triple Crown and his own prowess and the most famous of them all, the Banzai, Pipeline, he’s my pick to win this year’s Triple Crown of surfing.

Until next time stay healthy, keep surfing.

Peace.

Fishing Ban Won’t Bring Back Fish

2009-11-20T01:53:00.000-08:00

On a glistening sunny morning in Sayulita, Mexico, the day after speaking at Mexico’s first green school (Costa Verde international school) which is committed to sustainability, her words still echoed through my head.

We had held an essay contest for the children about the importance of preserving our beaches and oceans. With her words fresh in my mind, I looked out toward the ocean that morning to see two men diving for oysters. Everything about this moment seemed so pure and honest to me: what life used to be like in Laguna. The night before, the same two men were out diving for spiney lobster.

Growing up on the beach, I know this way of life very well. I was born into it. You will never convince me that the recreational fishermen or lobstermen have over-fished our 7-mile stretch of ocean. It’s just not that easy. Laguna Beach is not and will never be a fishing destination.

There are a multitude of factors in the depletion of fisheries in Laguna Beach, and all one has to do is swim out a couple hundred feet and look toward land.

One can’t help but feel like the ocean is the bottom of the drain for all the houses stacked on one another and all the urban runoff that filters into our ocean.

If you think it’s as easy as just banning fishing off our coast to return the marine life to what it once was, you are sadly mistaken.

When you factor in ocean currents and all of the big net fishing that surrounds us, most of the fish don’t stand a chance. If you really want to begin preserving our ocean and marine life, we need to take a closer look at ourselves and what we all contribute to our depleted marine life in Laguna.

You can ban fishing, but until we begin to address some of the real sources of marine life depletion, such as urban runoff and Aliso Creek, you will only be putting a temporary bandage on things — and taking away a culture and a way of life for those who care about it the most.

It’s been a week, and the little girl’s words still echo through my mind.

She asked, “Do you really think that the grown-ups care about what we have to say?”

Sadly, I don’t.

Bliss on the Mexican Coast

2009-11-12T22:10:00.000-08:00

The view from where I sit in this moment of bliss is unbelievable. Like a scene out of a Corona beer commercial, the palms scatter from the small slope in front of me almost to the water’s edge. There’s a light breeze leaving a soft texture on the ocean, like goose bumps on the skin of a woman who’s just been tickled. The sun has just crept up over the mountains behind me, sparkling with all of its joy across the big blue in an unveiling of morning-time magic.

To say it’s beautiful here would be an understatement. The emerald green with a hint of cobalt blue is now glistening under the warmth of the morning sun. Pelicans glide past, surfing through the sky without a footprint in the sand; soon, however, I plan on leaving mine.

Today is a big day, as I will be speaking at Costa Verda International School here in Sayulita, Mexico, known as Mexico’s first “green school,” committed to sustainability.

For the past couple of days the children have been passionately writing essays on the importance of caring for our ocean and beaches. I can’t wait to begin reading them.

Originally we were going to award a winner in a contest, with the winner going surfing with me for a day. Instead, the whole school is invited to a beach party after school.

I feel grateful for such an opportunity and look forward to learning from the essays. My belief is that it’s always more beneficial to look for better solutions to our environmental needs and find a happy medium of compromise.

I think we need to begin looking more closely at this in Laguna Beach.

First though, I’m going to go leave my mark on the beach below.

Peace.

Greener Pastures

2009-11-05T22:10:00.000-08:00

n 2002, as part of team OP, I traveled to Puerto Vallarta for a photo shoot. At the time I was about to sign the biggest deal of my pro surfing career, and my surfing future seemed brighter than ever — until Hurricane Kenna, a category 5 hurricane, smashed into us, washing away any future deal I had with OP. (The only Pacific hurricanes to strike Mexico at greater intensity were 1976’s Hurricane Madeline and an unnamed 1959 storm.)

In many ways that trip changed me forever. Being faced with a natural disaster and literally looking death in the face, I came away with a greater appreciation for life. Now, almost seven years later to the day, I am returning to the same region to speak at Mexico’s first “green” school. Anticipation, nervousness and excitement once again fill my soul, much like they did seven years ago.

Really though, I think you experience all of those feelings any time you’re traveling to a foreign land. It’s part of the excitement of travel, seeing the way other cultures live. Costa Verde International School in Sayulita, Mexico, is a learning community, encouraging residents to search for and solve the problems relevant to their community.

In my mind, being “green” is about searching for better ways and better solutions to our environmental problems. I think this is a great opportunity for me to learn as much as possible about the green cause. We have students working on an essay contest about the importance of preserving our environment and how to better care for it.

The winner will spend the day with me surfing and receive a gift bag from my sponsors. In the end, I think the students may just have more to offer me through their essays and teachings. Long live the world of learning.

Peace.

Don't Close off City's Best Tourist Attraction

2009-10-29T22:10:00.000-07:00

Eighty percent? Councilwoman Toni Iseman stated at the Blue Ribbon Task Force hearing that 80% of the population in Laguna Beach was in favor of full closure of the coastline off Laguna Beach to fishing.

Toni, please.

Where are you coming up with these facts? From our sister city in France?

Certainly not from the sea lions, who you want to neuter before releasing back into the ocean after they’ve been nursed back to health. I can’t even remember the last time I saw Iseman on the beach. Oh yeah, never. I have to wonder how many people in this town and otherwise would really want our coastline closed for one’s enjoyment?

How many jobs would it cost us, and how much good would it really do? Sure, place our Laguna beaches under a bulletproof piece of glass like Stonehenge. Have armed guards at every beach. But I’ve still got two words for you — Aliso Creek. And two more — urban runoff. Litter and pollution, when did we decide it was easier to ban everything instead of teaching? Teaching our younger generations the importance of caring for our beaches and oceans? Not littering but picking up litter? Taking ownership over the things that we love?

We can’t keep taking away the playgrounds of the world. Our beaches offer hope, dreams and good old-fashioned family experiences, and the last time I checked they were our biggest tourist attraction in Laguna Beach.

What we need is a City Council that gets its priorities in order. Beginning with proper regulation of our beaches and ocean and not banning those who care the most about our beaches from using them. The very people who don’t pollute but pick up the litter. The very people who on a daily basis abide by the laws not because they have to but because they love to.

Peace.

Council Sucking the Life Right Out of Town

2009-10-23T22:10:00.000-07:00

After last week’s article, “Balance of marine rules,” I have come to the conclusion that our City Council and Planning Commission have lost all objectivity and fairness.

The fact that there is any talk of surfing, kayaking, scuba diving and fishing — not to mention the peaceful act of strolling our beaches — being subject to future restrictions under the 1999 Marine Life Protection Act is frightening at best. Worse is that our council voted in favor of it 4 to 1, with only Mayor Kelly Boyd voting against it.

I thought things were bad when Councilwoman Toni Iseman suggested we begin neutering sea lions. Then came her fascination with having a sister city in France. Perhaps it started when Frisbees were outlawed?

Then it moved onto the ban on smoking. I hate cigarettes, but who is enforcing it? The police, the lifeguards — maybe it should be those who voted for the ban. But the doozy for me came when on Labor Day we tried to set up a pop-up tent that was 5 feet high and were denied because that too had been banned, but aren’t there people living in tents on Main Beach? I’ve heard of police states but never a police town. That should be the headline for Laguna Beach — America’s first police town.

If that’s not bad enough, try being in the restaurant business and dealing with the Planning Commission, who almost makes it impossible to survive under such severe restrictions. Who can forget the Roof Top debacle of a few years ago?

A restaurant like Mozambique — which seemingly does everything it can to be a good neighbor, with a shuttle service, fundraisers and community events, and signs at the entrance asking patrons to be respectful of the neighbors — can’t seem to get a fair shake. No cover charge for live acts (when other establishments can charge) and can’t serve dinner past 10 p.m.? What’s next, you can’t play rock and roll? Instead of banning everything shouldn’t our council and Planning Commission be looking for better solutions and compromises? Especially in this economic climate?

They should be working with these neighbors and businesses, instead of siding with one or the other. The simple act of banning does nothing accept take our freedom away, not to mention — again — that many of these bans are unenforceable.

Maybe we should just ban our City Council and Planning Commission.

Peace.

Brazilian Surfer Wins His First World Tour

2009-10-15T22:10:00.000-07:00

After two runner-up finishes this year and another one last year at the opening event of the 2007 ASP world championship tour, Adriano de Souza, the young upstart from Brazil, finally won his first world tour.

Ironically he won the Billabong pro in Mundaka, Spain, a dominant left-point break. It’s ironic because de Souza as a young amateur surfer competed in his first contest before he had ever surfed a wave going left.

In a bit of a Cinderella story, it was a fast-charging Chris Davidson from Narrabeen, Australia, who made his first finals appearance and skyrocketed to 20th in the current ASP world rankings. Those who follow surfing knew of Davidson’s backside surfing prowess as he was born and raised on Narrabeen, another dominant left-breaking wave.

Losing out in the semifinals was the ever-legendary Kelly Slater and CJ Hobgood, who both missed big opportunities to make up ground and further move up the tour ratings, as both Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson lost out early. Parkinson finished equal 17th for the third consecutive event and Fanning finished equal ninth after two back to back wins.

As the tour now moves to Peniche, Portugal, with two events remaining, it’s looking like a two-man race between Parkinson and Fanning, who has now taken the ratings lead over Parkinson.

However, the rest of the top 10 surfers technically are all still in contention for this year’s world title race. The current rankings are as follows:

1. Fanning, 2. Parkinson, 3. de Souza, 4. Hobgood, 5. Bede Durbridge.

Predictions for Peniche: Look for Slater to put the pressure on and keep the title race alive and well going into the final event at his favorite wave — the Banzai, Pipeline.

Other favorites to win in Portugal: Fanning, Durbridge and local favorite Tiago Pires. If the surf is big and hollow, look for Kieren Perrow to also be in contention for his first tour victory.

Until next week: stay healthy, keep surfing.

Peace.

Local Surfer to Rescue

2009-10-09T22:10:00.000-07:00

Every morning, no matter if it’s rain or shine, flat or big waves, I drink my coffee while reading up on what’s happening in the world today on my computer. Normally it goes in this order: ESPN, Surfline and then Facebook.

I don’t read up on CNN online too much because my nightly routine always includes Anderson Cooper 360.

So here I was, going through my morning routine, which includes writing my weekly column Thursday morning. I never know what I’m going to write until I begin writing. More often than not, something that intrigues me will just pop up, and it’s in that moment I know what I will be writing about.

I’m in that moment of writing now after reading about Laguna Beach’s Jon Rose and his heroic efforts in Padang, Indonesia. In total Jon fashion he was anchored on a boat, as he says, “at a fun little left-hander” when the quake hit.

Jon and crew quickly came ashore and saw the quake’s devastation, when Jon realized he had 10 new water filtration systems, which the community of Padang was in desperate need of.

I know what it’s like to be in a foreign country when tragedy hits, and it takes a special type of person to step in during a time of need, as Jon did — and does on a consistent basis.

Just a couple of weeks ago, Jon and I co-hosted a surf outing at Doheny Beach in Dana Point, and he later hosted an evening gala: both events supporting Costa Verde International school, Mexico’s first “green” school.

For myself and the rest of the Laguna Beach community, we salute your great deeds and your heroic efforts.

Peace.

Fanning Now the One to Watch in the Race

2009-10-01T22:10:00.000-07:00

With the Billabong Pro set to run from Monday to Oct. 17 (yes, this event does boast the longest waiting period on tour), the race for this year’s world title is looking more and more like a two-man race. Mick Fanning (2007 world champion) claimed his second victory — the Quiksilver pro in the south of France — in a row on the ASP world tour.

In an Australian final it was Fanning who bested fellow countryman Bede Durbidge, rocketing into second place in the ratings.

Joel Parkinson, the current ratings leader, finished a disappointing equal 17th for the second event in a row and has seen he is overall ratings lead shrink, to only a couple hundred points over Fanning. Durbidge, making his final of the year, has moved into the fourth position.

Now on the heels of the Billabong Pro, to be in Mundaka, Spain, the world title race is heating up, to say the least. No. 3 CJ Hobgood has got to be feeling good about his chances of winning the Billabong Pro, as the long peeling lefts perfectly suit his surfing style.

Others surfers to watch include Bobby Martinez and under dog: Adrian “Ace” Buchan.

While the long lefts of Mundaka certainly are better suited for the goofy footers, I still like Kelly Slater’s chances of winning here. He was an unlucky loser in the quarter finals in France, posting just over 17 points, which would have won him any other quarter final match up. Other regular footers with a chance include Parkinson and of coarse the hottest surfer on tour right now — Fanning.

The current top five rankings are as follows:

1. Joel Parkinson

2. Mick Fanning

3. CJ Hobgood

4. Bede Durbidge

5. Kelly Slater

But my two picks for this event are CJ Hobgood and Kelly Slater.

Until next time: Stay healthy, keep surfing.

Peace.

Slater Falls to Third

2009-09-24T22:10:00.000-07:00

For some making the semifinals of the Hurley Pro at Lower Trestles, finishing in equal third would be a great result. However, it was not the result nine-time world champ Kelly Slater was looking for. Especially when Joel Parkinson is ranked No. 1 in the world, having three wins under his belt this year.

Unlike last year, when Slater set the pace in leading the ratings from start to finish in winning his ninth world title, this year it has been Parkinson setting the pace, leading the year off with a big win and Slater trying to play catch-up.

Although finishing third last weekend moved Slater up two spots to sixth, it was a huge missed opportunity for him, one that Mick Fanning and Dane Reynolds took full advantage of. Reynolds, in making his first final on the ASP world tour, and Fanning in winning his first contest title in more than a year and returning to the form that helped him capture the 2007 title, after which he had an injury-riddled 2008 title campaign.

Reynolds, along with Fanning, was in great form as well, finishing in second place and moving up to 11th place in the world rankings. This week the world tour is in full swing with the Quiksilver Pro taking place on the southwest coast of France.

With Parkinson, Slater, Fanning and Reynolds all making it into round three, competition resumed Thursday.

The current ASP world tour standings are as follows; 1. Joel Parkinson, 2. Mick Fanning, 3. Adriano de Souza, 4. CJ Hobgood, 5. Damien Hobgood.

However, with No. 3 surfer de Souza losing out in round two of the Quiksilver pro, he is sure to lose his place among the top-five ranked surfers.

My pick for winning this event is, in an upset, Reynolds, followed by Slater and Parkinson.

Until next week, stay healthy and keep surfing.

Peace.

Nine-Time Champ Slater Still in Play at Trestles

2009-09-17T16:24:00.000-07:00

For the second day in a row the Hurley Pro Trestles has been called off due to small and inconsistent 2- to 3-foot waves.

The Hurley Pro, which has a five-day waiting period, only has one day of competition remaining after three days in which the waves have been good for the most part.

With one full day remaining, the story thus far has been that of former No. 2-ranked surfer in the world upsetting current No. 1 ranked Joel Parkinson in Round 3, opening the door for a nine-time world champion to make a charge up the rankings and toward an unprecedented 10th world title.

Kelly Slater, who defeated wild card Brett Simpson in Round 3, has been in fine form along with Rob Machado, Mick Fanning, Dane Reynolds and CJ Hobgood.

Other upsets include that of hometown hero Chris Ward and second-year sensation Jordy Smith.

With a slight increase in swell expected Saturday, this might be enough for organizers to resume competition, and if not, they still have one day in the waiting period remaining.

So cross your fingers.

With the door opening for Slater’s world title aspirations for a 10th title, my pick for this event remains the same: Slater, with my dark horse being Machado or Reynolds.

However, with Machado, who is close friends with Slater, taking down Parkinson, rest assured that Slater will not let this opportunity slip through his fingers.

The world title race just got a little more exciting.

Peace.

Homeless Need Help, Not Judgment

2009-09-10T22:10:00.000-07:00

Looking around reminds me of a small tent city. It’s sad to say the least. The homeless are strewed about like the wounded on a different battlefield. One that at times holds compassion for them and other times not. Sometimes one person can be greeted politely; the next person may just be urinating in public.

As the saying goes: “It only takes one or two to ruin it for all of us.”

Each person has a different story to tell; each person deserves his or her own second chance. Main Beach, simply said, is not the beach that I remember growing up on, and it is quite uncomfortable for many of us. In many ways it’s become the 1,000-pound elephant in the corner of our town.

I would like to think that our town has compassion for humanity and can help find these people adequate shelter — one that doesn’t interfere with families who would like to walk the new and improved boardwalk.

What has made our town great is our compassion for one another during the worst of times. I hear people make judgment on the homeless as if they somehow know all of their individual stories.

My question is: How do you know, if you never stopped to ask?

It’s time for our City Council to step up and find some proper shelter and/or solution for the homeless problem that plagues our town. I think we all know that times are tough for everyone right now, and our town needs to show its great resolve. The same resolve that we have seen so many times in the past.

One thing I am learning is that these old clichés we so often hear are old because they’re true. It’s not a time to judge because you never know. I know, because right now it could be me sleeping down there.

Peace.

Now or Never at Trestles for Kelly Slater

2009-09-03T16:32:00.000-07:00

With the way this summer has been, with plenty of swell and warm water, there’s a good chance that there could be plenty of swell for the Billabong Pro, set for Lower Trestles from Sept. 13 to 19, which would be nice, considering the site is largely considered one of the best high-performance waves on the ASP world tour.

This is exactly what the chosen one, Kelly Slater, needs to get back into the world title race if he’s going to give Joel Parkinson a run for his money.

While Slater dominated last year’s tour, Parkinson has set this year’s tour pace with three victories in only five events.

While Slater has dominated this event over the years, including his first victory as a pro in 1990, one can only assume he will be fired up to defend last year’s title here. But so will Parkinson, who has yet to win a world title and has lived in Slater’s shadow since he decided to come back on tour.

It’s now or never for both men, as this is the swing event on this year’s tour. It’s the sixth event out of 10, and the outcome could very well decide this year’s world title.

Other contenders include current No. 2-ranked surfer CJ Hobgood; No. 4 Taj Burrow; and No. 7 Mick Fanning, as well as my two dark-horse picks — Dane Reynolds and Taylor Knox — if the surf comes up.

My Cinderella story pick: wild card Brett Simpson, winner of this year’s U.S. Open of surfing.

In the end, however, Slater will again reign supreme. Riding off into the world tour of surfing’s premier sunset with world title No. 10, making way for the next generation.

Peace.

An Epic Summer for Surfing

2009-08-28T22:10:00.000-07:00

Is there a better feeling in life than waking up to sunny skies, strolling down to the beach, then tiptoeing your way across the hot sand, before finding your spot and jumping into the warm Pacific Ocean?

In my estimation this has been the best summer since the El Niño summer of 1996. Now my judging criteria might vary from others so I will include mine: waves, warm water and sunny days — and this summer has seen a lot of all three.

I remember surfing second reef Brooks Street for almost two weeks straight in the summer of ’96, and although second reef hasn’t broken for two weeks straight, we did have the epic July swell of this summer, now known as the “Chicago swell.” Yes, I know I missed it. However, I can say it was well worthwhile, now that surfing has officially been legalized there.

In some ways missing good days of surfing here in Laguna Beach always reminds me of why I love it so much and why I have chosen the path I continue to walk in life.

Sometimes you just know your destiny, and I certainly knew mine. I’ll never forget that fateful day in my counselor’s office in high school with my mom. Mr. Lawson was lighting me up for being disruptive in class, and I deserved every word of it.

It was in the moment in which he asked me what I was going to do with my life and when I replied “be a pro surfer,” he smirked at me, and boy, did that light a fire within me.

In some way that was one of the most important moments in my life, and I appreciate Mr. Lawson for challenging me that day. Twenty years later, the class of 1989 and I will be celebrating our 20-year reunion this Saturday night in Laguna.

It’s funny because not much has changed for me; it’s time to go surfing.

Peace.

Many Great Memories to Look Back On

2009-08-20T17:03:00.000-07:00

I can walk around Laguna with no shortage of great memories, whether it’s morning or night, sunny and warm, or blistering cold and raining. I will have to admit though, fog is my least favorite. Some memories are great inspiration, like being a 13-year-old watching the Olympic torch being run through our town; others are great spectacular events that have rocked our town.

The lineage of events that have taken place in the last 38 years of Laguna Beach is rather remarkable, and I say that because that’s as far back as my time here on Earth goes. Not to say there weren’t great events that preceded me because I know there were — especially in our town.

I look back on “the Walk” for the Laguna Canyon Road and the only word that comes to mind is “awesome” and this is the epitome of Laguna culture and community — the same culture and community that held firmly intact during some of worst events in Laguna history.

I remember the first fire I witnessed here, in 1978, which was nothing compared to the great fire of 1993 and the 300-plus homes that were destroyed. Then of course the tragic floods of 1998 and the horrific Blue Bird Canyon landslide of June 1, 2005, which was the second slide to hit the same canyon since 1977.

One of my personal favorites was watching Laguna Beach’s Dain Blanton win gold in volleyball at the 2000 Sydney Olympics. Because I witnessed in high school just how hard he worked at perfecting his sport and he had my respect even before he won gold because of his great work ethic.

It’s pretty amazing how quickly the time passes in 38 years. It’s been 20 years since I graduated high school and my dad still doesn’t know how I graduated — barely, I would say — and Aug. 29 will be our 20-year reunion. Not only am I looking forward to the reunion, I’m looking forward to another 38 years of Laguna memories.

Peace.

A Case of Mistaken Meaning

2009-08-14T17:08:00.000-07:00

For an entire week after missing the swell of summer, I had to hear about how I missed it: the swell of the decade. I might remind people that the swell in April 2007 was bigger, but nonetheless, yes I did miss a great swell.

It always starts at home and with my folks giving me a good ribbing about missing yet another good swell. However, this time I heard about it from everyone — the mailman, the checkout lady at the store, little kids and even a lady in her mid- to late 70s or early 80s had a good laugh at me for missing that swell.

Yes, sometimes you can’t win for trying and that’s OK, things can always be worse, can’t they? Which brings us to the second debacle, “Missionary on a Surfboard” (Aug. 7). It seems to a lot of people think that headline has a dual meaning.

I’d first like to clarify a couple of things that I have been frequently asked about this title: No, the pun was not intended, and no, I have not experienced that on a surfboard, but I will certainly keep it in mind for the future and no, I did not choose the headline.

In fact, Sex Wax is the only kind of sex any of my surfboards have ever seen.

I can’t tell you how many people have said “Yeah, bro, missionary on a surfboard,” while throwing out the shaka sign at me, or the e-mails or questions I have received from female readers.

It’s pretty funny, to say the least. I mean what’s life without a little laugh at my own expense?

At least it doesn’t read “MTV star held in fight.”

Peace.

Slater’s Still the one to Beat in September

2009-08-06T22:10:00.000-07:00

The U.S. Open of Surfing took place two weeks ago, during one of the best summer swells in years, culminating with the Cinderella story of Huntington Beach local Brett Simpson winning over former world champion Mick Fanning in an all-star studded final.

In the surfing world, all eyes will once again shift to California’s next big event — the Hurley Pro at Lower Trestles in San Clemente, Sept. 13 to 19.

While the Open was a six-star event on the World Qualifying Series, it had many of the World Championship Surfers competing because it offered the largest cash prize in the history of surfing — $100,000 for first place.

Not bad for Simpson’s first major win — and in front of his home crowd to boot.

I expect to see Simpson, who I am assuming will get a wild card into this event because he has not yet qualified for the World Championship tour, a contender in this event.

Don’t be surprised if he makes it as far as the quarter finals, upsetting a few world title contenders along the way.

Others factoring into this event will be current ratings leader Joel Parkinson, nine-time world champion Kelly Slater, CJ Hobgood, Mick Fanning and Taj Burrow.

My pick for this event is none other than Kelly Slater, who has owned this event since 2003, finishing first or second each year. You know what they say — to be the man you have to beat the man.

And for now he’s still the man.

Peace.

Looking Back on Brooks Street Surfing

2009-07-30T22:10:00.000-07:00

Ironic. I leave for Chicago to celebrate the legalization of surfing there, and I miss the swell of the summer. But I wouldn’t change those circumstances for anything, not even another victory in the Brooks Street surfing championships.

Although I do really miss competing in it. It’s been 13 long years, and I was really hoping to compete in it again.

Maybe next year.

However, after three years of absence, the contest finally got the waves surfers have been waiting for, and it really seemed to reinvigorate the surfing community here in Laguna. I have heard so many great surfing stories over the weekend. From the highlights to the injuries, the Brooks Street surfing championships is the heart and soul of surfing in Laguna.

With some many great past champions having won the event, it’s every young surfers dream to add their name to the winners’ circle, and what a swell to showcase Laguna’s best talent.

I loved seeing the pictures and videos of everyone competing. It was even more special to see all the spectators line up on the new staircase watching. It brought back a lot of good memories for me. There was no better feeling than competing in that event and seeing my parents standing on the beach.

It’s amazing how an event like this can bring our community closer together, and to see all of the support it gets from our local retailers, especially when our economy is stuck in that cold Humboldt Current.

With surfing now brand new and legal in Chicago, who knows, maybe one day they’ll have a Brooks Street of their own.

Peace.

Surfing Comes to Chi-Town — Legally

2009-07-23T22:10:00.000-07:00

I woke up this morning to the song, “Life is a highway.” A fitting song considering my day — up early to write my column.

It seems lately all of my travel days are on Thursday and in the morning to boot — which is coincidently the same day — I mean morning — that my column is due, and in many ways it’s the greatest way one could start a day.

It’s like writing a postcard to your closest friends.

With a rumored “swell of the decade” and the U.S. Open of surfing in Huntington Beach happening this week through the weekend with a $100,000 grand prize up for grabs, I will be in Chicago where surfing has just been legalized in the last month.

I’m pretty sure no south swell is forecast for the Great Lakes.

I will say, however, that the growth of surfing is alive and well, and just beginning in Chi-town.

Stand-up surfing will no doubt be the next blossoming trend of a sport there.

In fact, when I did a little stand-up paddling right smack dab in front of the magnificent mile it was one of the most memorable experiences I have had.

Of course, then it was illegal.

That is what this weekend is all about in Chicago, and more importantly for the surfers there, a celebration of the legalization of surfing.

I know it sounds weird to think that surfing was illegal here, but that is now in the past, and the future looks bright.

It’s still kind of weird to me that they actually surf in the lakes, but they do — and I have.

During the ribbon-cutting ceremony, I will be presenting Chicago city officials with a surfboard that has been donated by my surfboard sponsor, Lost, which has a great drawing on the deck of it of the Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower).

I think they’re going to be impressed to say the least, and I must take a moment to thank my sponsors that have made this great day possible: XS Energy drinks, Lost surfboards and clothing, Ethos FR, Boost mobile and the Surfrider Foundation.

Peace.

When it Comes to Beaches, Laguna is Best

2009-07-17T22:10:00.000-07:00

Finally, validation for what many of us have known for decades or longer: Laguna Beach is “best in the West” as voted in Sunset magazine’s reader poll. Laguna tops such beautiful spots as Kauai’s Aliomanu Beach and Oregon’s Cape Blanco State Park.

Having grown up on the pristine beaches of Laguna, I’m not surprised. The ocean landscape is so distinct it’s unbelievable. Just look at the reef formations and the isolated, intimate coves that line our coast — mixed in with the cascading cliffs and blowholes — and please, let’s not forget the “Arch.” The only surprise to me is that it has taken this long for such an honor.

When asked “Where’s the most beautiful place you have ever been?” my answer has never changed: Laguna Beach is the most beautiful place that I have experienced. It has the best of both world’s combined. Great places to stay and great restaurants to eat at, Laguna really does have it all when you factor everything in.

Our climate, for the most part, is always tolerable, unlike the humidity you get in the likes of Hawaii and Tahiti, although they do have better waves.

We have a better vibe among our surfers. Cape Blanco State Park is beautiful, I’m sure, but it’s too cold (air and water included) and way too sharky for me. Another thing I know that hasn’t been mentioned or perhaps overlooked is the sand here in Laguna. You won’t find better sand to lie in, after jumping in the water anywhere in the world.

Congrats, Laguna, you deserve it.

Peace.

Surfing’s King Returns toThrone

2009-07-10T22:10:00.000-07:00

After three equal 17ths in the first three events, the king is back. Kelly Slater has again struck gold in the fourth event of the year on the ASP World tour. The Catarina pro, in Brazil, saw a full array of highly contested conditions ranging from head-high to over-head surf and perhaps a little less ideal on the final day.

That saw ratings leader Joel Parkinson slip up and fall in the semi finals, leaving the door wide open for the most decorated surfer of all time to swoop in and take his first win of the year, defeating local hero and current No. 2-rated surfer Adriano de Souza in the finals. De Souza had defeated Parkinson in the semis, while Slater defeated current No. 3-rated surfer and close friend CJ Hobgood in the other semi final.

As the tour now heads to South Africa and perhaps the world’s most perfect wave in Jeffery’s Bay, Slater looks poised to follow up his first win with another. Having won J-Bay four times in ’96, ’03, ’05 and ’08, and back on a three fin, even a non-betting guy like me would bet the house on Slater.

Beginning this year’s tour on funky self-shaped boards and having the worst slump of his career in a string of equal 17th place finishes, the king knows the time is now and it’s the perfect stretch on tour for him to continue his march toward a 10th world title.

With Joel Parkinson winning the first two events of the year, he is the current ratings leader and one time J-Bay event winner as a teenage wild card back in 1999. He certainly has the talent to win again out here.

CJ Hobgood is a great example of consistency this year, and I think he will at least equal last year’s quarterfinal finish. Mick Fanning deserves mention as well.

But two sleepers to keep an eye on are Dane Reynolds and local upstart Jordy Smith. But in the end it will be the king — because he’s back.

My only question: When did Slater ever leave?

Peace.

The Wrong Time to Ban Fishing

2009-07-02T22:10:00.000-07:00

The cold north wind began blowing hard Monday afternoon, dropping water temps below 60. It seems that the same cold wind has now been blowing a lot longer in terms of our town and/or city. I’m not exactly sure which one it is anymore.

It seems that almost every given week this town or city takes on a new personality. One week kayaking is in at the Montage; the next weeks it’s out. This week we’re talking about the Iseman Marine Reserve Plan, which will ban all fishing over a 7-mile stretch of Laguna Beach.

I think any time you’re taking away jobs from those who have been involved in their respected industry like fishing it’s darn right cold — like the north wind. Our town or city, whatever you may call it, should not be worsening our local economy but finding ways to strengthen it. Cutting out jobs isn’t a way to do it; perhaps finding compromises is a better way. You’re talking about seven miles of coastline here that will be deemed a total “no fishing” zone.

While placing some restrictions on fishing is one thing, why not also turn the focus toward our inland neighbors and place more restrictions on the hazards of urban runoff? By banning fishing in this 7-mile stretch — otherwise known as the Iseman Marine Reserve — it is being implied that this stretch has been over-fished and therefore leading to the lack of fish in this area.

If so, I strongly disagree with that.

It’s a rather heavy-handed stance to take on those who make a living from fishing and for whom it’s in their best interest in seeing our oceans remain pollution-free. However, it makes you wonder why this stance hasn’t been taken with all the new development that have taken place over the last couple of decades inland?

With a few less sewage spills here in town we might actually have fish — that’s without even mentioning cleaning up Aliso Creek.

Improving our depleted fisheries isn’t just going to be solved by banning fishing and taking away jobs, it’s going to take a collective effort with our inland neighbors and otherwise.

The Iseman Marine Reserve plan?

I didn’t even know she went to the beach.

Peace.

Finding New Delights of Summer

2009-06-26T22:10:00.000-07:00

There is no better theme song for the rich tradition of summertime surfing here in Laguna than Laguna’s musical band of hipness, “Honk.” Listening to Brad and David’s theme song just makes you want to go outside and embrace summer. Being back from Chicago last week, and surfing in front of my parents’ home, was like an old school reunion.

Warm water. Sunny skies. Fun waves. Good friends.

Simply put, I love it.

I have so many good memories of that beach it’s unbelievable.

Surfing in the mornings and boogie surfing during black ball. Walking down to the back door of La Paz and ordering a combo for a $1.50 and sometimes, when we were really lucky, a super combo for $2.75.

A few years later Laguna Surf and Sport opened on the corner of Anita Street and that was pretty exciting stuff for us. They would have poster signings from time to time with all of greatest heroes — like Martin Potter and Shaun Tomson.

Salerno’s pizza was next door (now downtown), which had the best slices of pizza in town for a dollar. Tuesday was a huge day in Laguna, as Taco Tuesday at Tortilla Flats was the place to be for great 50-cent tacos. During the summer months there would be a posse of us down at Pearl Street Beach who would stroll up to Flats every Tuesday just for the tacos and then back down to enjoy the rest of the day.

Life is good in Laguna — especially as a kid growing up on the beaches here.

Last week after surfing all day I was starving, and I had heard from several people about a little deli next door to Sapphire in the new Pottery Place plaza that offered great Kobe burgers with garlic fries for $10.

It’s not quite the back door at La Paz, but in this day in age it’s pretty darn close and after a good day of surfing, it tasted great.

Peace.

The Hunt is on for the Perfect Meal in Laguna

2009-06-19T22:10:00.000-07:00

It’s funny but my parents have become the new Ebert and Roeper in regards to the best restaurants in Laguna. It’s classic, how they discuss their new favorite restaurants and what they enjoy ordering.

They know the menus like the back of their hands, which restaurants have the best value for your money, and most importantly, perhaps, which nights offer half-price wine. One of their long-time favorite restaurants here in town was the Beach House — not only did they enjoy the food but they loved going for the early bird special.

This month they have been raving about Mozambique’s new $10 menu and the steak and lobster dinner it offers. I love watching how excited they get in telling me about it and how I have to go and try it. I’m serious. I think Mom and Dad should have their own reality TV show about dining in Laguna.

With that said, I know given the recent downturn in our economy a lot of restaurants are offering great $10 menu items and happy hours. It’s important we continue supporting our local restaurants and retail, so on the advice of my parents I’m going to go and try that (as my parents would say “fabulous”) lobster and steak dinner, along with trying some of the other local restaurants’ “value” menus and happy hours.

The goal: to see which local restaurants have the best food along with the best value menus. So over the course of the next couple of weeks I will be dropping in on these restaurants and writing about my value menu experiences here in this column.

It should be fun, and I can’t think about a better way to kick off summer than setting out and finding out which Laguna restaurant has this summer’s best value menu.

Good luck and see you soon.

Peace.

Winds May Change in City

2009-06-12T22:10:00.000-07:00

It may seem like a dreary day here in Chicago but for some the future has never been brighter. The decision was made to lift the city’s surfing ban and open up two beaches for surfing in the summer and four beaches for year-round.

It’s been nearly seven months since our first meeting with the Chicago city parks district, along with supporters Vince Deur, Todd Haugh and Mike Urban. Dozens of phone calls, hundreds of e-mails. I must admit it does seem strange to be talking about surfing in Chicago, but how completely mind blowing that it was illegal. Perhaps better said, overlooked. The Chicago city parks department has been nothing short of accommodating and gracious — not only in opening up the beaches for surfing; but more importantly going the extra mile for us in opening them up for surfers to enjoy this summer.

During the meeting today, I couldn’t help but feel proud of the men and women in the room working together and just how far along surfing as come. I know by this act of lifting the ban of surfing here, that it will one day impact someone’s life in a way never thought imaginable, because I do believe that surfing does have the power to change people.

It changed me.

This Saturday will be the first official day of legalized surfing in Chicago and I look forward to being a part of it. I don’t think there is a better feeling then when two sides can come together to work toward a common goal, such as this, and achieving it.

Here are the beaches now open for surfing:

In-season: Montrose and 57th Street;

Off-season: Montrose, 57th Street, Rainbow and Osterman.

The sport of surfing will be in good hands here, especially with the likes of Vince, Todd, and Mike supporting it along with the city parks department.

Surfing has come a long way since I began and will no doubt continue to grow and grow in a more positive light than that of yesterday, when it was mostly viewed as a beach bum sport. I can still hear my old high school counselor now, saying to me, “You want to be a pro surfer?” Yes, I do and I still do today — and so do many others.

Peace.

Another Laguna Summer Beckons

2009-06-04T22:10:00.000-07:00

Some things never change. There are things in all of our lives that make us feel so alive. And for me nothing does it more than summertime here in Laguna. I remember as a young boy lying down on my parents’ deck just waiting and watching for the sun. Always facing south, I would stare toward downtown, watching the clouds part and the all-important hand of time.

Because I knew at 10 a.m. the lifeguard would soon be strolling down the stairs next to my parents and that was my cue that I was allowed to hit the beach.

I grew up on Pearl Street beach, under the watch of a group of guys who worked hard and played hard. They taught me an awful lot about life. They took me under their wing like an extension of my family and when it came to surfing they encouraged me to go after my dreams.

It was a special time in my life, one that I think of often, as I was just telling my mom the other day. One of my fondest memories of growing up was the beach barbecues the older guys use to have — and they would invite me. That meant the world to me, to be included. Maybe the most classic memory of all was when it was time for me to come home. Mom would ring the cowbell and yell, “Jamie, it’s time to come home.”

Guys still imitate her calling me today.

Then there were the lifeguards — another extension of my family — and boy did I enjoy harassing those guys. I was a little terror when it came to throwing ice plant and water balloons at them. But we were all family on that beach and in some regard we still are, and I think it just may be time for a Pearl Street beach reunion barbecue.

In fact, I know it is.

Peace.

All Eyes Now on Slater

2009-05-28T22:10:00.000-07:00

In the epic “Sunshine Showdown” that took place Jan. 22, 1973, in Kingston, Jamaica, it was a 37-0 George Foreman knocking down a then-29-0 Joe Frazier six times in two rounds to win the championship by knockout in one of boxing’s biggest upsets.

It was during HBO Boxing’s first broadcast when the call was made by Howard Cosell that would soon be heard around the world, becoming one of the most memorable in all of sports.

In the world of professional surfing, the call this year has been “Down goes Slater” — as in Kelly Slater, the most decorated surfer of all time. He has failed to advance from a single heat this year, earning himself three consecutive first-round defeats and placing equal 17th in each of them. Slater now sits in a lonely 25th in the world rankings after blazing through last year’s tour, winning an unprecedented ninth world tour and posting the single most successful season of any professional surfer to date.

My, how quickly things change in a year.

Winning the third event of the year, the Billabong Pro held in Tahiti, was none other than Californian pro Bobby Martinez, who defeated veteran Australian surfer Taj Burrow. With Mick Campbell having his best result in years along with Aritz Aranburu, who was the story of this event, both surfers finished in equal third by making the semifinals.

It was Aranburu who served up Slater’s beating and continued his strong showing all the way to his best result as a pro.

With the tour heading to Brazil and seven events left on this tour, all eyes will surely be placed on Slater’s shoulders to see how he responds and if he does, in fact, respond.

Or will he just take his lumps and walk off into the sunset?

My money is on him responding with a couple of wins.

Beaches Get Their Grades

2009-05-21T22:10:00.000-07:00

Here we go again. Summer is approaching quicker than the blink of an eye and Heal the Bay has just released its annual report card. Sadly, Los Angeles remains the worst in California. The nonprofit assigned A-to-F letter grades to 94 beaches in the state for the dry-weather period from April 2008 through March 2009, based on levels of weekly bacterial pollution.

While Los Angeles fell slightly below the county’s five-year average, Orange County beaches recorded outstanding water-quality grades well above the state average. However, it should be noted that a pair of historically contaminated beaches, Doheny Beach at San Juan Creek in Dana Point and Poche Beach in San Clemente, were again placed within the 10 worst beaches — otherwise known as the top 10 Beach Bummers, as stated in the report. For more information on Heal the Bay’s annual report card, go to www.healthebay.org.

In other related news, Laguna Beach’s nonprofit My Hero Project will be hosting its annual My Hero Fest Thursday evening at [seven-degrees], 891 Laguna Canyon Road. My Hero is an educational web project that celebrates the best of humanity.

I can tell you, being born and raised in Laguna Beach, where else in the world could there be a better home for such a nonprofit that celebrates the best in humanity? Our town is chock full of stories of heroism and individuals who inspire us on a daily basis.

I hope to see you all there, as it should prove to be another great celebration in Laguna Beach history in honoring those who make the biggest difference in the world today.

Where Legends are Made

2009-05-14T22:10:00.000-07:00

One of the most exciting events on the ASP world tour is taking place on the beautiful island of Tahiti. The Billabong pro is halfway into Round 2, and the legendary wave Teahupoo, known as Chopes, has yet to come to life in the early stages of this event.

Teahupoo is widely known as one of the most dangerous and hollow waves on the planet.

Past champions include the Hobgood twins, Andy Irons and nine-time world champion Kelly Slater.

So far the waves had been moderately small with windy conditions, with forecasters calling for a moderate west-southwesterly swell to continue through the next couple of days with more favorable winds projected.

Former three-time world champion Irons is surfing in this event as a wild card after deciding to sit out this year on the world tour.

Slater is looking for a big result to jump-start his year, after finishing equal 17th in the first two events.

Australian Joel Parkinson, who started the year with back-to-back wins, is looking to continue his hot streak in looking for his first world title.

The current top-five rankings on the world tour are as follows: Parkinson, Mick Fanning, Fred Pattacchia, Jordy Smith and former world champion CJ Hobgood.

My event picks for this event include CJ Hobgood, or for the legend of Slater to continue to grow, but I believe one of these two surfers will win this event.

Till next time, stay healthy — keep surfing.

Peace.

Slater Wins on a Door

2009-05-10T22:10:00.000-07:00

In the world of surfing there is an age-old saying: When you’re great you can ride anything, even a door. Kelly Slater can do just that. I just never thought he would be winning contests on one.

After winning the Pipeline Masters this past December on a snub nose 5-foot-10, Slater is continuing to play with conventional surfboard design.

This past week at the first event of the year, the Quiksilver pro on the Gold Coast of Australia, it was Slater again winning his first round heat.

No surprise there — except that he surfed his first round heat on a snub nose 5-foot 4, and as far as conventional surfboard design goes he might as will have been riding a door.

Much like Tom Curren before him tinkered with surfboard design, thus introducing the world to the modern day fish craze, Slater too seems to be in hot pursuit of creating yet another new surfboard craze.

However, winning over the judges might be another surfer. Slater, who blazed his first round heat, was continually scored low, most likely for his choice of equipment, much like Australian Cheyne Horan who many believed lost out on world titles because of his choice of unconventional equipment. Horan’s surfboard was called the “Lazor zap,” a single fin design that, in simple surfing terms, just didn’t work and even the No. 2 surfer in the world at the time (Horan) struggled ridding one.

However, the difference between Horan and Slater is nine world titles to none. Although I do believe Slater will continue to play with conventional surfboard design, I don’t believe he will allow it to get in the way of his quest for capturing a 10th world title this year.

Look for Slater to ride a more suitable surfboard in his next round and to win an unprecedented 10th world title this year.

Peace.

Taking in the River View

2009-05-07T18:05:00.000-07:00

I’m here walking along the Grand River in Grand Haven, Mich. It’s 10:36 a.m. with a cold breeze blowing in off of the river, and a bank of fog is sitting just a bit farther out. The smoke bellows from atop an old factory just to the north with no one in sight, except for the little birdies flying in circles around me and the odd salmon that jump periodically as their splashes echo in surround sound.

I feel like I’m reliving a moment in time that has been captured before in an old novel or the movie “A River Runs Through It.” Even though I can’t really remember it. Time is at a standstill, and I am OK with it. Sometimes life at home seems to be going so fast — too fast for that matter.

Always rushing. Cell phones. Text messages. E-mail.

I love the moments when I can just get away and take it all in. Putting on my headphones and just writing. Looking around and contemplating all that is around.

Flying here was nothing short of amazing — flying over the snow-covered Colorado Rockies on a sunny day looked almost too amazing to be real. The Grand Canyon, the Mississippi River — I love the opportunities in life of seeing new things while traveling to new places. Especially when you’re lucky enough to call Laguna Beach your home.

The other day, I was supporting a beach clean-up and fundraiser for the Michigan chapter of Surfrider while signing posters for the kids.

Until then I think I’ll just keep walking along the Grand River singing “Zip-a-dee-doo-dah.”

Peace.

Celebrating two Laguna Fixtures on the Same Day

2009-04-30T22:10:00.000-07:00

Ah yes, spring fever is back and fluttering around under the sunny skies of Laguna Beach with the celebration of two of our community’s greatest fixtures today.

The first celebration will be the retirement of legendary lifeguard Mark Klosterman, which will be at the main lifeguard tower on Main Beach from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., followed at 6 p.m. by a dinner at Tivoli Too. The cost is $35 per person, with music by the Blue Hawaiians.

Growing up on the beaches of Laguna, I always looked up to Klosterman, the one lifeguard that I can honestly say I never threw ice plant at — or worse, pee bombs. For me, that’s saying a lot because I used to bomb all the guards from my parents’ deck.

One of my favorite memories of Klosterman was a nighttime rescue of a small boat, in rough seas with a helicopter hovering above with its spotlight on and a full capacity crowd gawking at one of Klosterman’s finest moments — doing what he did best, being a lifeguard and saving lives.

Thanks, Mark, for all that you did for our town and for setting the bar of legendary status among lifeguards everywhere.

The other celebration today will be the 80th anniversary extravaganza at the La Casa del Camino hotel at 1289 S. Coast Hwy., at the corner of Cress Street. A donation of $25 is being asked, with food and drinks along with a great opportunity to see this historical hotel, which was the first to open here in 1929.

Two great celebrations today, too bad I won’t be here … I’ll be hosting a reception with actress/model Alexandra Leighton to benefit Heal the Bay, at 8 p.m. at the Hudson Guild Theatre, 6539 Santa Monica Blvd. in Los Angeles.

Peace.

Make Every Day Earth Day

2009-04-23T22:09:00.000-07:00

Wednesday was Earth Day, and although I think it’s great that we all acknowledge this important day, I believe we as the stewards of our environment should celebrate Earth Day every day.

All it takes is doing the little things in life, like picking up trash, conserving energy, using less water and avoiding single-use plastics.

Get involved in local beach clean-ups or attend City Council meetings when our oceans and beaches are concerned; or join nonprofits such as Surfrider, Heal the Bay and Oceana. There are a multitude of great organizations out there.

In Laguna alone we have the Clean Water Now Coalition, Zero Trash Laguna and the Laguna Beach Environmental Committee, which works alongside our council, all of which are great first steps in not only preserving our oceans and beaches but our environment.

However, the key is getting involved.

The other night while running on the beach, just south of the Montage, it was shocking how much trash I picked up — and the half dozen plastic cups with an “M” stenciled on them. Something needs to be done — and now.

I’m not asking people to save the world, because that is a task too great for any of us. However, we can all start by getting involved or doing the little things, and today is the perfect day for a new start in a new direction.

We should all want to leave our Earth in a better place for the generations to follow, so our children and our children’s children can enjoy the same pleasures that we enjoyed, such as our ocean and beaches. For that matter, maybe for you it’s a mountain or park. Whatever you cherish, make some time and give back to it.

We can all make a difference, and together, we can make an even bigger difference.

Peace.

On the News Beat up North

2009-04-16T22:10:00.000-07:00

The sun has now risen over the tallest of buildings and blasted its way into my 32nd-floor room of the Hilton in San Francisco. It’s an amazing view to say the least. From my balcony I feel an icy chill in the air with rows of buildings, panning out like a jigsaw puzzle of sorts. Just beyond is the frigid waters of San Francisco Bay.

I could sit for hours and write with a view like this, but I’m already running late for a hearing on offshore oil drilling, which I will be covering for Fuel TV as their correspondent. Yesterday, this hearing was front-page news here.

The last hearing I covered for Fuel TV was one in San Diego regarding the expansion of the toll road, and that was nothing short on a madhouse. I’m expecting this to be nothing short of that.

Perhaps even more maddening.

Word on the street here is that people love to protest in San Francisco.

When I am working as a TV correspondent at events like this, I always find it fascinating having to remain neutral in interviewing both sides of the argument. When I am obviously so pro ocean and beaches, I enjoy the discipline that is involved and listening to the opposing side. I think there is always something to be gained in listening to both sides of an argument.

With that said, one of my biggest pet peeves is stepping on a chunk of melting tar that squishes between your toes and drives you nuts with its putrid smell, while grabbing a little stick and trying to scrape it off as it rubs off and onto your fingertips.

After all, what good is the beach if we can’t enjoy the ocean?

Peace.

‘Green’ Honorees Deserve Recognition

2009-04-09T22:12:00.000-07:00

While out of town last week, I was green with envy, reading the Coastline Pilot and more than pleased to see that our town had recognized some great individuals for their stellar “green” contributions to our town and environment.

I first met Arnold Hano from my time on the environmental committee. Hano was only on our committee for a short time but his legacy and spirit continued on with us.

Tom Osborne, whom I also first met while a member of the same committee, is a first-rate dedicated environmentalist, always available and ready to lend a helping hand to our committee and its members.

I have never met Charles Michael Murray, but I have heard plenty of “green” comments about him and his dedication toward preserving our environment.

It’s great to see these individuals being honored for work that is nothing short of heartfelt passion for the betterment of our environment.

This work is largely done behind closed doors and in heated situations that can compromise even the best relationships.

It is never easy going against the grain and standing up for what you believe in, and luckily for our town, and us, these men have the guts to do so.

A couple of men were not mentioned that I think the green world of in terms of giving back to our community and our environment.

Maybe I should change that last sentence to “picking up” instead of giving back, because Roger Butow truly is the godfather of beach cleanups here in town and Chip McDermott has done a fantastic job with his new beach clean up movement, Zero Trash Laguna.

As a tight-knit community, we know that we can all make a difference — and together we can make an even bigger one.

Peace.

Surfing with Celebs in Santa Monica

2009-04-02T22:10:00.000-07:00

Don’t call it a comeback; I’ve been here before. It’s been five long years since I put on a contest jersey. However, give me a good reason and I’ll gladly get out there, like this coming Sunday for Oceana’s “Save Our Surf” Surf-A-Thon and pro/celebrity expression session — followed by their celebrity gala the same evening.

Former world champion Shaun Tomson and “Hollywood Dreams” actress Tanna Fredrick will co-host the surfing events from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. Celebrity surfers in attendance include Michelle Rodriquez, David Chokachi, Rob Machado and 1977 world surfing champion Peter Townend, among many others. This event will be at Ocean Park Beach in Santa Monica between lifeguard towers 26 and 28.

Oceana’s “Save our Surf” celebrity gala at Shutters on the Beach will begin at 5 p.m. after the conclusion of the surf-a-thon. Director Henry Jaglom and actor Noah Wyle will co-host a live auction benefiting Oceana.

“Oceana seeks to make our oceans as rich, healthy and abundant as they were in our grandparents’ youth. We look to a future in which dolphin sightings are common along any temperate coast; in which the mighty swordfish, marlin and tuna are abundant once again; in which whales and sea turtles thrive, cod are plentiful on both sides of the Atlantic, local fishing cultures evolve rather then decline and in which fish are a safe, growing and plentiful source of food around the world,” according to Oceana.

For more information, go to Oceana.org. Peace.

Tough Times for those Who Park

2009-03-26T22:11:00.000-07:00

In the late ’90s, in the parking debacle of the Pribram household, three of my mom’s friends were ticketed in the driveway while playing in a heated bridge game. Actually it wasn’t the late ’90s — I just thought that sounded good. It was more like five years ago. I’m sure my mom will argue that.

And I know what you’re thinking — women drivers, they probably parked halfway in the street to deserve such tickets. But no, they were all just parked in the driveway. I actually can’t recall the reason given on the tickets as to the violation. Perhaps it was something along the lines of a bridge game infraction, or worse, a disgruntled bridge player turned them in for having too many cars parked in a driveway.

In any event I do believe the tickets were all rescinded.

My brother got a ticket once or twice parked in my parent’s driveway, but he was parked halfway in the street. His ticket or tickets were rescinded as well — but he was sentenced to parking school. (Just kidding.)

Parking is tough in Laguna. Even in the Pribram driveway. Rumors are floating around that my parents will now jump on the bandwagon in these hard times and begin charging my brother and I for parking. Or worse, one rumor had it that we would have to purchase a yearly permit to park in the driveway — just as the city offers.

Just a couple of days ago the city proposed putting in some meters on the block of Agate Street and Ocean Way. The neighborhood rallied as they always do, and thankfully our City Council listened and denied the request for meters. We don’t need more meters; we need to find better solutions to our parking problems and support for our local businesses, not make it harder for people to park.

So thank you, council, for listening to the residents.

Peace.

Slater Aced Out in Quiksilver pro

2009-03-19T22:10:00.000-07:00

Kelly Slater went down and went down early in the Quiksilver Pro on the Gold Coast of Australia. Riding questionable equipment — a 5’3” snub nose — for the second straight heat, it would be his last.

Losing to local rising star and event wild card Julian Wilson in Round 3, Slater dashed his hopes of defending his title.

Instead, Slater finished in equal 17th in the opening event of the 2009 world tour.

Last year, Slater lead the tour from start to finish — winning an astonishing ninth world title.

However, that was then and this is now. A rejuvenated Joel Parkinson took the win in front of a home crowd — his first win in two years — defeating Brazilian hopeful Adriano de Souza.

Since winning the Triple Crown in Hawaii last December, Parkinson is said to be more serious than ever in his quest to take his first world title. Hiring a personal trainer for the first time in his career, he is believed to be in the best shape of his life.

Perhaps the heat of the event was the semifinal clash between Parkinson and 2007 world champion Mick Fanning that saw an epic seesaw battle until Parkinson finally prevailed.

Making the semifinals along with Fanning and also finishing in equal third was another Australian in the form of Taj Burrow.

Finishing in equal fifth and losing out in the quarterfinals were twins C. J. and Damien Hobgood, Bede Durbidge and Adrian Buchan.

The next event will be April 7 to 18 at the legendary Bells Beach.

My two picks for who may ring the Bell?

Slater and Parkinson, but I’m leaning toward Parkinson going two for two.

Until next time, stay healthy and keep surfing.

Peace.

Spring Fever Swells and Lapus Beckon

2009-03-12T22:10:00.000-07:00

Is there anything better than daylight saving? Well maybe a couple of things — like a good swell, north or south, it doesn’t matter. I’ll take a straight closed-out west swell for that matter. This year has to be the flattest of my aging 38.

In surfing years, I’m like 105.

There are two guys who know every swell of every year and actually keep records of it. One is Dennis McTighe, who’s like a walking encyclopedia of wind, weather and swell.

The other is Ray Williams, a longtime Laguna surfer who keeps records while waiting for his next game of volleyball.

I’m not sure what’s better than daylight saving time, but I do know anything’s better than it getting dark at 5 p.m. I go absolutely mad during the early sunset months. Ah, yes, spring fever is in the air. An extra hour of light. Bring on the warm water and warm weather.

OK, so the warm water is a few months off.

Unless of course it’s an El Niño year, which I don’t think it is. Better get back to Dennis and Ray for more on that.

Speaking of warm weather, has anyone seen the newly finished Royal Hawaiian? It looks great. I love the new look with the palms, and I hear the food’s good.

My dad even mentioned it to me.

How classic would that be, Dad and I drinking Lapu Lapus at the bar.

Speaking of Laguna establishments, I popped my head into the Lumberyard and, wow, they did a fantastic job remodeling it. Pretty dapper, to say the least.

On another note, if you ever find yourself in Anaheim like I did last week while attending the Natural Products trade show, I suggest staying at the Menage hotel.

It’s a great place where Vegas meets the beach with style. I loved it.

Till next week; maybe I’ll see you at the Hula Hut.

Peace.

A Surfer on Capitol Hill

2009-02-26T15:34:00.000-08:00

One of the first things you’ll notice in Washington D.C. this time of the year is the sheer cold, the rush of sirens and the empty cherry trees. Arriving late at night with a full array of lights topping the tallest of buildings, or the way a shining star sits atop a Christmas tree, suddenly an amazing moment becomes even more amazing, when out of the right side of the window, we could see the White House.

We meaning me and my girlfriend, who has accompanied me on this portion of the trip — stop No. 2 on the Surfing Soapbox world tour. After a week in Lima, Peru, I had arrived in D.C. as an invited guest for Great Lakes Day 2009, having surfed the Great Lakes and having two close friends who grew up surfing them. The Great Lakes, with all of their beauty and might, remain very close to me. My fondest memory of last summer came while stand-up paddling on Torch Lake and its color of blue water was more stunning than that of Tahiti.

One night, we attended a reception at the Canadian Embassy after talking our way in with the help of filmmaker Vince Deur. It seems for some reason we were left off the list. Luckily, the next day I was once again back on the list and headed to Capitol Hill to meet with Michigan Rep. Peter Hoekstra, in an effort to or, better said, a plea for more funding in preserving the Great Lakes and ending sewer overflow problems that continue to threaten them — which sounds similar to the hazards that threaten our oceans.

I was asked to speak and share my own experiences in the effects of water pollution. Having twice contracted staff infections because of it, I can only hope that our voices were heard.

I was proud of the group of people with whom I shared this experience, all of whom spoke clearly, staying on topic and with a touch of passion in which they spoke from the heart. I challenge all those who share the same passion for our oceans to do the same.

Peace.

Following the Surfing Path in Peru

2009-02-19T22:10:00.000-08:00

I’ve always believed that surfing has the ability to change people. I know because it changed me. Surfing gave me something to dream about. Something to keep me walking straight ahead without ever looking back. Surfing has always been the one constant path in my life. It remains the same today.

This week, we passed the torch down to the next generation of surfers here in Lima, Peru, with the help of Lost international clothing and surfboards that sponsored a beach cleanup, in conjunction with several surfing schools whose students participated in cleaning up their beaches.

By 9 a.m. sharp there was already a fleet of children with rubber gloves on, picking up trash.

To see such pride on the faces of these children sent waves of encouragement through me — it shared that same feeling, like catching that perfect wave.

One by one they walked a couple of miles, from one station to the next, picking up trash in the blazing sun with a great sense of ownership and a new understanding of caring for our beaches and oceans.

At the third and final station, all of the trash bags were collected and each participant received Lost posters and stickers. Along the way, I made a new friend, a young surfer named Niso, who walked the last stretch of beach with me picking up trash. It was one of those moments that will always remind me of why surfing is so special, walking and talking with this youngster.

I’m sure he has the same dream I once had when I was his age: the dream of one day becoming a pro surfer, just as those before me — who took time out to talk to me and sign pictures — I followed suit just as I was taught.

Peace.

Taking a Surfing Road Trip

2009-02-12T22:10:00.000-08:00

Well folks, the Surfing Soapbox is doing just that — going surfing for a couple of weeks. First stop is Lima, Peru, where my sponsor Lost Clothing and Surfboards will be premiering my TV show that aired on Super Bowl Sunday, titled “My Firsthand” on Fuel TV.

“‘My Firsthand’ is an award-winning documentary based on the lives of action sports greatest heroes.” It was the absolute greatest moment of my surfing career and an honor to have such an opportunity.

The filming of my show showcased the making of the documentary, “ECO-Warrior,” which is an ongoing project about preserving oceans and beaches and those who take part in the efforts of doing so around the world. We traveled to the Great Lakes, where surfing is illegal in Chicago and then onto Lima, where a 3-kilometer breakwater threatens the existence of one of Peru’s greatest waves. I have always had a special kinship with surfing. However, it is only now that I have truly found my calling in giving back to not only the sport of surfing but to our oceans and beaches. I have met so many gifted and enlightened people along the way, who teach me something new every day — something special that I can now pass on to the younger generations that will follow in our footsteps, just as those before, taught me.

After the TV premier, I will be taking part in some beach clean ups with the local children of Lima before heading north to Cabo Blanco for more surfing and filming. Along the way you can catch up to me with my latest blogs on MySpace and Facebook.

Until then — stay healthy, keep surfing.

Peace.

Hunting for the Best Happy Hour

2009-02-05T22:10:00.000-08:00

Laguna Beach is unique in so many ways it’s almost difficult to remember them all, beginning with the beaches and secluded coves.

Then we have sprawling cliff tops overlooking and the reefs that adorn the shoreline from one end of Laguna to the other.

There are greenbelts and steep canyon faces that sit, literally, just across the street from these beautiful beaches.

My favorite view of our town is that from the ocean when you can see just how different Laguna really is from our neighbors to the north and south of us.

From the ocean you can see that along the coast of Laguna our canyons nearly come all way down to the beach, especially at Nyes Place, reminding one of a little European village near the ocean.

Yes, Laguna shows its uniqueness in many different ways: through its traditions of arts and crafts, and rallying around one another, and the circling of Laguna wagons during rough times after fires and floods.

Now it seems there is a new circling of wagons here in Laguna while continuing to find new ways, in adapting to the current economy climate that has no doubt seen better days.

Many of our local restaurants have revamped their menus to accommodate its loyal clientele base.

One of my favorite restaurants, Kya, has not only reinvented its menu with great prices and a new happy hour but also a brand new remodel.

It is now known as the Kya Bistro.

Some other happy hour specials that have also caught my eye are that of the Royal Hawaiian with its own membership club, GG’s Italian Mediterranean Bistro, Sorrento Grille and, on a slightly more expensive scale, Mozambique, which boasts an 8-ounce prime steak along with 7-ounce lobster tail for $19.99.

So the Surfing Soapbox is going investigating to find out exactly which restaurants here in Laguna just may have the best happy hour in town.

Peace.

The Newspaper Office of the Past

2009-01-29T22:10:00.000-08:00

It was with great sadness that I read that not only was my editor’s (Cindy Frazier’s) column, Lumberyard Logs, coming to an end, but so were the Coastline Pilot offices here in Laguna. Closing its doors once and for all.

I never really understood why her column was titled Lumberyard Logs (sorry, boss) and I have spent a lot of time thinking about it. My dad would call that idle time. However, I have quite enjoyed her column and often read it for inspiration.

In all honesty, I owe Cindy — “the boss lady” as I like to call her — a lot of gratitude. In a lot of ways she took me under her wing in a delicate way, showing me how to write a good column.

In many ways she has been like a teacher to me, one whom I look up to, much like my first editor, Geoff Griffin.

A lot of Laguna history has passed through that downtown office of the Coastline Pilot, and I remember meeting Jerry Ledbetter for the first time as a junior in high school.

From what I remember he was the classic grizzled newspaper editor — drinking coffee and reeking of cigarettes with a deep, trembling voice.

The Coastline Pilot was the first newspaper to write a story about my surfing career, and I remember it like it was yesterday. It’s truly amazing how quickly time passes.

I never thought that one day I would be able to look back as I am now upon a newspaper and have such great memories. In many ways this column that I write has shaped who I am and enabled me to grow as a person.

Perhaps even more importantly, the Coastline Pilot gave me chance at writing — something I will always cherish and appreciate.

Yes, in many ways this paper has become like family for me. Much like the town of Laguna is.

Peace.

He Stands Corrected on Point of Family Honor

2009-01-23T22:10:00.000-08:00

It’s not very often that my memory fails me, and to be quite honest, I would be more than happy to argue the point. If it wasn’t for my mom, and my dad backing her up, it’s an almost unwinnable debate that would be better off not seeing the light of day again.

Well except for right here, for all Laguntics to read in the “Surfing Soapbox.” Because what is life without a little humor in it? A boring one, and I’ll be the first to admit there’s plenty of humor that goes on at the Pribram household. MySpace was a hot topic the other week. Local politics. Memory loss. Dead batteries (definitely no pun intended) that need recharging; no, not my parents’ batteries, rather in my dad’s car.

I’m pretty comfortable telling you that the two of us don’t know much when it comes to cars. We’re lucky just getting the jumper cables right. In fact, once we didn’t and it sent sparks flying.

I would tell you that it was only last week that my so-called error or lack of memory created lavish sparks again but then that would be untrue. It was worse. Way worse. Not only was my mom speaking in her old Belfast accent and referring to me as “Jamie,” but my dad was also on her side.

Umm, I’m going to leave that last sentence alone.

Well, I’ll get to the point now because I know you’re all waiting to hear what my mistake was — and it was a big one. It’s not often I show up at my parents house and the first words out of my mom’s mouth are “Jamie, you were wrong. It wasn’t your grandmother, she was the sweetest and most caring woman in the world. It was your grandfather, you boob.”

And therein lies the problem. I had referred to my grandmother as the one who had given me a jaw-busting scolding for giving a couple of schillings to a homeless man, when I was 7 in Oxford.

For the sake of my better judgment I am not going to argue who it was. Because if my mom tells me it was my grandfather, then it was. Because sometimes in life one’s eyes say more than spoken words ever can and I know from judging my mother’s eyes that day that my grandmother was the nicest and most caring woman in the world. Just like my mom is to me. Peace.

A Life Wasted on Drugs

2009-01-15T22:10:00.000-08:00

In the realm of knowing, there are only two things that I do know — that you never know and that my love for the ocean is unwavering. The past couple of days of uncanny sunshine have reaffirmed that. There’s no denying that I have a special connection with the ocean.

My love is as strong today as it was the first day that I stood up on my first wave, surfing. Perhaps even stronger. Surfing for me was always my savior — a church of sorts — and every day I couldn’t wait to go and pray on those waves. I’ve lost some good friends along the way to drugs and alcohol. Luckily, it was the ocean that kept me on the right path.

Losing my best friend to cocaine still hurts. Hardly a day goes by that I don’t think of him. We grew up together surfing, and then something happened. He began choosing drugs over surfing. He surfed less and less, and well, soon he chose drugs over everything.

Family. Friends. Surfing.

Soon drugs were his world.

He’s been in and out of prison for more than a decade now. I’ve been waiting for that phone call for almost as long. The phone call in which I hear he’s dead. I could never understand how one could put their loved ones through such pain.

I’m struggling here, with how two lives could begin in such similar fashion and then go in such opposite directions. I’m grateful for the choices and decisions that I have made. Because life really does come down to that, making the right choices.

The last couple of days have been like magic to me. Nothing is better than a beautiful day at the beach. Being in the ocean and looking around at all of the beauty that surrounds it. The garibaldi swimming below with the sunshine reflecting above. Watching the reefs splish-splash, with the green eel grass and different-colored starfish clinging to it. Personally speaking, I’ll choose the beach every day, and I have.

Drugs don’t discriminate: Not only will they take your best friend, but they will take you if you let them. Make the right choice.

Peace.

Laguna Shows Compassion for the Homeless

2009-01-08T22:10:00.000-08:00

Homelessness isn’t just a dilemma for Laguna Beach but the world outside. Nothing breaks one’s heart more than seeing a young girl begging for change — as I did on the side of a dusty road along the outskirts of Lima, Peru — or a grown man whom I saw sleeping on a cold slab of cardboard under a freeway in Santa Monica.

I couldn’t imagine for a second what it might be like to be homeless.

Quite possibly my first real encounter with a homeless person was at the ripe old age of 7 in London. A man had asked me for change while I was walking down the street with my mom, sister and grandmother. I obliged and handed the person some change that at this moment I want to call a shilling.

A quick thank you was given to me, with a smile of gratitude, and instantly a sharp tongue followed from my grandmother — a stern scolding that I can remember to this day. Sadly, it’s the only real memory I have of my grandmother, whom I met only once.

I’m assuming the mantra of showing compassion to the less fortunate wasn’t something she had been taught as a little girl growing up in Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Still, today there seems to be a certain resentment toward the homeless, and I will agree some will rub you more than the wrong way, but so will the average Joe. But that old stereotype that they choose to be homeless is something I will never fathom.

Why would anyone choose to be homeless?

It is the same ignorance that surrounds the ACLU lawsuit against Laguna Beach — because if there is one town that shows compassion for the less fortunate it is Laguna Beach.

Because in Laguna Beach being homeless is only one fire or landslide away; this is a town chock full of caring people who time and time again rally for one another and extend a helping hand.

This is a town that offers food, shelter and services to the less fortunate. In helping those who have fallen on hard times, it offers the opportunity to get off the streets. It’s a town that is more than compassionate toward the less fortunate — a town that, in short, is a sanctuary for the homeless. It’s too bad my grandmother isn’t around today, because I know she would think this lawsuit is just as ridiculous as I do.

Because I know some may say we already do too much.

Peace.

Town’s Spirit Shines

2009-01-01T22:10:00.000-08:00

Sadly the economic downfall has hit us all, some harder than others, as a reported 40 businesses have closed their doors. Home prices have been falling for quite some time, and earlier in the year gas prices were at an all-time high.

Thankfully they, too, have fallen to a five-year low.

In 2008, our town went from a “beach buddy” to a “beach dummy.”

However, there is always hope the great culture of Laguna Beach is returning. Last week, as one family was burned out of their home for the second time in 15 years, our town — or better said, the people — once again rallied in support, providing the family with a place to stay, a stocked refrigerator and even a Christmas tree with gifts under it.

To me that is the true spirit of Laguna Beach, the same caring and compassionate spirit that has aided our town and its residents through many past disasters.

That is what defines Laguna beach — its people: their resolve, their fighting spirit and their loyalty to one another when needed most.

Laguna Beach, to me, isn’t about fancy cars and big homes, but the people. Those who care enough to get up and organize beach cleanups — because they care.

This includes people like Gary Arthur who have the ability to dream up such gatherings as the “manly tribal” games — that is just classic Laguna spirit. Because it’s not so much about the games but about the gathering of friends.

Friends and family have always been what Laguna is about, not the flipping of homes and making a buck.

Perhaps we have gone through this growth change and now in this economic downturn things will again begin to return to old values.

One thing that was a blessing in disguise for me personally during the harsh gas prices was rediscovering how wonderful it was to ride a bike through the streets of Laguna Beach. You’d be amazed how many great people you will run into, when you take the time. I can’t wait to see that great Laguna spirit continue in 2009.

Peace.

Eco Warriors Conquer Northern Spain

2007-11-09T22:09:00.000-08:00

The Eco-Warrior team of Will Henry and James Pribram traveled to Asturias, a region of Northern Spain, in October 2007, to support fellow eco-warriors that are trying to protect the waves on the Spanish coast. Accompanied by Dean LaTourrette, currently executive director of Save the Waves Coalition, and Vince Deur, their trusty filmmaker, they traveled from Henry's home in Central Portugal northwards on a classic Euro surf trip. The group met good weather and friendly locals on the journey up the coast, finally making it to the home of Dr. Tony Butt, the famous surfing scientist who pens articles for the Surfer's Path, among others.

Tony toured them around the local spots and introduced them to the local surf association's leaders, Hugo Santos, Gonzalo Iglesia, and photographer Juan Fernandez. On their first night in Villaviciosa, the American boys were treated to a dinner at a cidreria, a traditional apple cider bar, where the waiters stand on pedestals and pour from up high into pint glasses below. Here they developed (in addition to a decent cider buzz), a strategy for the days to come.

Over the next few days in Asturias, the eco-warriors appeared on three different television news programs and in two newspapers. They spoke about the value of surfing - from both an economic and a social standpoint - while making sure to mention the wave in Mundaka Bay, which was hosting the annual WCT event at the time.

Mundaka Bay, for those who don't know, had a wave that disappeared a few years ago after a massive harbor dredging project destroyed the sandbar at the river mouth, over which the wave breaks. The disappearance of the wave caused a rift in the local economy, which didn't know how much it had come to depend on surfers and the money spend until it was almost too late. This year marks the triumphant return of the sandbar at Mundaka, and the return of the Mundaka Pro - but a bitter taste has been left behind for residents of the town.

Two other projects on the north coast of Spain threaten prime surfing locations. In Gijón, a harbor expansion and seawall are slowly encroaching on neighboring coastline, on which five surf spots will be buried. Gijón promises to be, upon its completion, the largest port in Spain. In nearby Rodiles lies a wave often described as "Mundaka's Little Sister" due to the vast similarities between it and its more famous brother. This wave is jeopardized by a harbor expansion and dredging project - a combination that sounds all too familiar to the surfers of this coastline.

"Surfers understand what many non-surfers don't, that these places are rare beauties and should be preserved, no matter what," said Pribram. "It would be like filling Yosemite in with concrete," added Henry.

The Eco-Warrior project hopes that in the future, there will no longer be a battle about whether or not surf spots are valuable, as they will be protected regardless. Until then, we will continue to do our best to spread the message around the globe.

Eco Warriors Return to Chile

2007-05-28T21:04:00.000-07:00

Almost one year ago, Will Henry and James Pribram met each other for the first time, at a secluded surf spot many hours south of the capital of Santiago. On the original trip in 2005, Pribram and Henry joined hundreds of local Chileans and international conservation groups to protest the construction of a new pulp mill on the Rio Itata, which threatened to pollute a pristine watershed and harm local businesses and industry. Hence, exactly one year ago in the exact same place, the eco-warrior project was set into motion. The initial trip led Save the Waves Coalition to hire Josh Berry as their Chile Program Director, and for the organization to begin formulating a long-term plan that will they hope will eventually lead to better environmental stewardship along Chile's vast and desolate coastline. The new mill at Nueva Aldea, then nearing completion, was seen by many environmental groups as a giant step backward for Chile's future reputation as a favorite location for outdoor enthusiasts. Surfers and fishermen who enter the waters along this coast on a daily basis see it as a threat to their very lives.

Now one year later, the mill at Nueva Aldea is operating at 50% capacity, and local residents have begun lose hope of stopping the new mill's operations. The company behind the mill, CELCO, is owned by the Angelini Group, which was listed recently as a Fortune 500 company, and controls 49% of Chile's fuel industry. Needless to say, their formidable political clout has allowed them a great deal of leniency from CONAMA, which is Chile's equivalent to the EPA. CELCO operates numerous pulp mills which have been blamed for many of Chile's most heinous environmental disasters, including the poisoning of a UNESCO biosphere in Valdivia in 2005 that killed thousand of black-neck swans. (Read more about their Valdivia disaster by going to www.savethewaves.org). Their new mill in Nueva Aldea is the largest in Chile. Currently CELCO is constructing a pipeline that will bring mill effluent directly to the sea - both for the Nueva Aldea mill and for the one in Valdivia. While the plan is placating some residents of the Rio Itata river valley and those near the plant in Valdivia, fishermen and other ocean enthusiasts are vehemently opposed. Mill pollution carries numerous toxins and carcinogens that threaten sea life and human health.

The eco-warriors added to their numbers in May, this time bringing together a group of professional surfers and activists, to work on new film project for Save the Waves Coalition, entitled All Points South. This documentary surf film will highlight the natural wonders that exist along the Chilean coastline, world-class surfing talent, and the industry that threatens to destroy it all. Joining Pribram and Henry were filmmakers Vince Deur, Jeremy Koreski and Timmy Turner, as well as surfers Keith Malloy, Raph Bruhwiler, Ramon Navarro and Brett Schwarz. The film hopes to bring international attention to the harm that the pulp industry is bringing to the landscape and ocean environment in Chile's south.

At the start of the trip, the crew visited Ramon Navarro in his home town of Pichilemu, surfing a heavy beach break one day, and then scoring a good day at the world-famous Punta de Lobos. Ramon comes from a family of fisherman, and treated the boys to a dinner of locally-caught delicacies at his family's home, including fresh corvina and raw sea urchin, as well as a rare Chilean treat: a crab that lives inside the urchin, which is eaten alive. Josh Berry, Save the Waves Chile Program Director, was the first to take the challenge, holding the squirming crab in his hands before tossing it in his mouth. Henry went second. Both claimed it was one of the best things they've ever tasted, but many of the others in the group didn't trust their word.

The trip moved further into the deep south, where the crew visited the town of Constitucion. This small city has five great waves at its doorstep. At one point in the not-so-distant past, it was a hugely popular tourist destination, with a massive bay and beach. Now the beach is trashed, and a mill operated by CELCO fouls the air and water. The crew surfed anyway, but at one of the better waves, in the rivermouth near the mill's effluent pipe, the pollution was overwhelming. Henry nearly became sick to his stomach, and the filmy water burned the skin. No wonder the town has so few local surfers.

Filming continued further south to the region where the Nueva Aldea mill is set to heighten the disaster to all-time levels. The surf was good, but the spirit of the local people seemed a bit downtrodden. All we can hope is that the film will revive their hope.

If all goes well, the film All Points South will put extra pressure on CELCO, CONOMA, and the government of Chile to clean up its act. Chile is at a crossroads in its future - choose between sustainability and a healthy balance of industries, or favor one at the expense of all others. More to come from the eco-warriors as they continue to rally for change across the globe.

Eco Warriors Make Waves in New Zealand

2007-04-17T21:09:00.000-07:00

Eco-Warriors James Pribram and Will Henry completed yet another successful mission on a voyage sponsored by XS Energy Drinks. Henry and Pribram traveled to New Zealand’s North Island in order to bolster the effort by local Kiwi surfers to preserve Whangamata Bar, a world-class wave that could possibly be damaged by a marina proposal. They met with leaders from the Surfbreak Protection Society (SPS), a New Zealand based surf protection organization, in order to help them prevent the marina's construction from moving forward. On March 28, Henry and Pribram joined SPS representatives Grant McIntosh and Michael Gunson in a meeting with Tariana Turia, leader of the Maori Party, in the capitol city of Wellington. Following the meeting at Parliament with Ms. Turia, the Eco-Warriors traveled up the east coast, where they sampled waves near the new artificial surfing reef at Mount Maunganui. The following day they met up with SPS President Paul Shanks (pictured above at Whanga Bar) in Whangamata, and were greeted with offshore winds and a head-high swell.

“The wave at Whangamata is an absolute gem,” said Pribram after his first surf at Whanga Bar, as the locals call it. “To damage this spot would be a crime against nature.” The wave, which peels down a long sand bar at the mouth of an estuary, is being threatened by a marina proposal that will dredge huge amounts of sand and other material from inside the wetlands of the estuary, as well as construct a large seawall to protect the newly dredged channel. Surfers and ocean experts fear that the disruption inside the estuary will cause the sandbar to disappear, hence causing serious degradation to the wave quality at Whanga Bar.

“The estuary has existed for thousands of years in a delicate equilibrium," stated Paul Shanks, "with sand on the inside and the outside of the channel in a perfect balance, which is what creates the excellent surfing conditions. What we are worried will happen is, if you dig a hole inside the estuary, sand will disappear off the bar to fill it in.”

Proponents of the marina have been trying for more than fifteen years to gain approval for the project, despite the fact that over 100 moorings already exist inside the estuary, and many local residents are against it. Approval was just granted this year, in a controversial reversal of a previous decision by Minister for the Environment Hon. Chris Carter to deny the application. "Somehow the Marina Society managed to pull strings to get the permit pushed through again," stated Shanks. By then, Hon. Chris Carter had changed positions in the government, and the application was subsequently approved by Hon. David Benson-Pope, Minister of Conservation.

"When you start to dig into the facts," stated Will Henry, "you realize pretty quickly that this decision to approve the marina was influenced by people who stand to make a lot of money off of this project. I would call it a conflict of interest, but some people would say it is outright corruption."

Mooring space near the open ocean is relatively scarce these days in New Zealand, driven by a booming sportfishing and boating industry. Investors in the marina project undoubtedly stand to make a substantial sum of money by selling their berth space once the marina is complete, which appears to be the driving force behind the marina proposal. But opponents of the marina don’t believe that the project is worth sacrificing a world-class surf spot just to make a few people more wealthy. “Whangamata is a surf town – it started out as one and still is one – so why is it that the boaters suddenly can come in here and walk all over us?” furthered Shanks.

During the trip, the marina society attempted to dig test holes in the estuary in order to prepare for the marina’s construction. The testing was halted by four local Maori, who stood on the equipment in protest. “The marina society is working on an illegal consent,” stated Grant McIntosh, a representative of SPS who was present at the protest. Regardless, marina proponents vowed to move forward with the contentious project.

“Once again, it’s a case of the big guys versus the little guys,” said Henry. “As soon as investors smell money, the surfers will have to go surf somewhere else. This can't be allowed to happen.”

Eco Warriors help to save La Enramada during mission to the Canary Islands

2007-02-13T21:11:00.000-08:00

Representatives from Save the Waves Coalition returned February 8 from a diplomatic environmental mission to the Canary Islands, succeeding in an effort to protect and possibly enhance the island’s surfing environment. During the ten-day trip sponsored by XS Energy Drinks, the two surfing emissaries focused on the wave known as La Enramada, a point break on the island of Tenerife that was threatened by a coastal development proposal. The mission proved more successful than any surfer would have thought possible.

The ‘eco-warrior’ series was initiated last year as a regular feature article in the Surfer’s Path, the world’s first 100% green surf magazine. The eco-warriors are: James Pribram, a professional surfer, writer, and environmental spokesperson; and photographer Will Henry, who is also founder and executive director of Save the Waves Coalition, a non-profit that preserves surf spots globally. The trip also included filmmaker Vince Deur, creator of the popular surfing film ‘Unsalted,’ who will be producing a documentary series about the surfer-environmentalist’s current and upcoming adventures.

The construction project threatening La Enramada was originally proposed by the Hotel Riu Palace in 2006, which intended to create an artificial beach in front of the luxury hotel. The sand would have been transported from another part of the Canary Islands, and seawalls constructed for sand retention. Leading up to the trip, Save the Waves Coalition worked closely with the Canary Islands Surfing Federation in an attempt to persuade the Spanish government to deny the proposal. The southwest coast of Tenerife has already seen the destruction of numerous surf spots in the past three decades due to similar artificial beach projects, especially in the tourist zone known as Las Americas, where over eight seawalls currently exist. Numerous artificial beaches already dot the area, and the project at La Enramada was seen not only as unnecessary, but also as an additional blight on a stretch of coast that already is severely scarred by coastal armament projects.

Upon arriving on Tenerife, the eco-warriors heard promising news: the government had just denied the hotel’s application to construct the project. Unfortunately, before the victory could be celebrated, a second proposal was submitted on the heels of the first, this time by a “private developer” who intended to build a marina in the very same location. Henry and Pribram, along with Angel Lobo, the President of the Canary Islands Surfing Federation, met with officials in the Ministry of the Environment and made a strong case for the preservation of all surf spots on the island, including La Enramada. The Ministry responded by denying the marina proposal at La Enramada, and to consider promoting protected status for the remaining surf spots on the island.

The Ministry also expressed a desire to explore options for the removal or redesign of some of the seawalls in the Las Americas region, in an effort to restore some of the beauty lost along this part of the island’s coast. They did express concern, however, that the loss of sand on the artificial beaches might have a negative impact on tourism, as the hotels with beach front locations would lose a valuable asset.

Henry presented the officials with the idea of using artificial surfing reefs to replace the seawalls, which could prove to be a win-win situation for both surfers and hotel owners alike. Artificial surfing reefs have been proven to act much like seawalls in their ability to dampen wave energy on the shore behind them, and in their effectiveness at preventing coastal erosion. The reefs could be built partially using the rocks from the existing seawalls, and would not only add beauty to the coast, but become a new tourism attraction.

After the meeting, Henry felt positive that the Spanish government would explore the new technology. “It’s the most open-minded reception I have ever experienced from government officials,” stated Henry. “They realize the value of surfing, and the need to restore the natural beauty of the coastline. It’s extremely encouraging.”

Pribram added, “Their response was great, and if the government stays the path, it will mean even better things for the surfers and the economy on the island.”